Tuesday, 7 March 2023

Milan to Zurich via the Swiss Alps 24-28th February 2023 (FS, RhB, MGB, SBB) Trip Report

Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn (MGB) Loco HGe4/4ii 107 climbs the final ascent to Oberalp Pass, the highest point on the MGB network, while working a train from Disentis/Muster to Andermatt. 27.02.2023

Those who have read these pages before will be well aware that this was not my first trip to Switzerland and its narrow gauge railways. The main aim of this trip therefore was to have a good time with friends, and introduce our partners to what we consider 'The best railway in the world' (if anyone knows a better one... please let me know!). 

The aim was to showcase all that was best about the RhB over the weekend, with a couple of days bolted on once the girls had left for some more serious railway photography!


Friday 24th February

Peter Witt car 1866 working route 19 in Milan.

It was an early start to get to Heathrow for the 06:45 ITA flight to Milan Linate, which was uneventful and put us onto the new M4 metro line from the airport. This doesn't actually go to the city centre yet so we changed onto a tram, and I then excitedly forced another tram change when it was observed that one of the old 'Peter Witt' trams on route 19 was following us.

A bit of tourist activity and lunch around the Duomo left us very tight for time to get to Milano Centrale for the 14:20 Trenord service to Tirano but we made it with a minute or two to spare. Unfortunately the train was pretty busy and walking through almost the whole thing was an exercise we didn't really need, especially with it's 'barn door' style doors which like to close on you several times per coach! 

E464 403 prepares to depart Milano Central very 
very shortly for the run to Tirano. 24.02.2023.
The reason for aiming for this train was that it was expected to be loco and stock, and indeed was E464 403 pushing a long rake of single deckers. Many of the trains on this route are now new 'Rock' units, but it appears that the Trenord online timetable has the answers with units shown to have disabled access and the hauled trains having bicycle spaces and no 1st class. 

The run along lake Como was pleasant but would have been improved if the cloud had lifted enough to see the far shore... the forecast for this whole trip wasn't massively promising in terms of weather! Fortunately we arrived at in Tirano in time since we were risking the 8 minute connection onto the 17:00 RhB service to St Moritz. This made comfortably, even allowing time to run to the supermarket for supplies! Our Allegra hauled train had a couple of empty log carrying flat wagons tagged on the back for good measure! 

Morning at Alp Grüm at 2091m above sea level. The clouds have parted revealing the view from the station hotel as a St Moritz bound service makes its scheduled call. 25/02/2023.

We were staying in the Hotel at Alp Grüm where we also enjoyed an excellent dinner. Despite being prepared for no entertainment after the restaurant shut, the staff stayed up fairly late and kept us well watered.


Saturday 25th February

The Bernina Express, hauled by an ABe 8/12 
'Allegra' railcar pauses at Alp Grüm. 25/02/2023.

We woke up to find that the fog from the previous night as very much still present and I really thought that nobody was going to get to see the view we had all came for. Fortunately I was to be proven wrong as the sun broke through before breakfast, some fresh snow overnight completing the view. What was very evident however was how little snow there was, even here above 2000m. This winter has been very bad for the Alps, with somewhere around 50% less snowfall than usual- places which were buried during our previous winter trip this year were bare ground. Not good for our photography, and even less good for the winter industries in this area that rely on the snowfall with many ski resorts already having to consider shutting early.

Gemf 2/2 20607 shunts in the 'road' platforms for
the Arosa line at Chur. 25/02/2023.

Travelling on from Alp Grüm we boarded a very lengthy and busy train over the beautiful Bernina pass. The conditions were all that we could have hoped for, though it would have been good if we had been able to find some seats on the train. Our next highlight was the Gourmino dining train, reached by way of Pontresina and Samedan, the latter connection having somewhat mysteriously reverted to loco-hauled push/pull operation over the Autumn after the Engadine services became units shortly after our last visit. 

The Gourmino runs on many trains over the winter months, and pushed by an Allegra unit we all had a great lunch and everyone was suitably impressed with the views on the Albula line.

Loco hauled street running as Ge4/4ii 618 'Bergun/Bravuogn' works the 14:17 from Arosa to Chur. 25/02/2023.
618 in the street platforms at Chur ready to head 
back up the line to Arosa. 25/02/2023.

Checking in to the usual accommodation, Hotel Post in Chur we then had a little while to get into position for the inbound loco-hauled service from Arosa. This was worked by Ge4/4ii 618, the originally booked loco, 623, having failed ahead of the first run. Achieving Arosa loco hauled was definitely a big objective of this trip, having failed on a previous visit and to make it even better the Apré Ski bar attached to the rear of the train for the return trip was persuaded to open for us! This meant enjoying the stunning line from a 4-wheeled wooden coach complete with balconies- oh and a beer or two!.

There was time to find some further refreshment in Arosa before our dinner booking at the highly recommended Güterschuppen in the old goods shed. 


Sunday 26th February

One of the main photographic aims of the trip, the Arosa loco hauled train led by Ge4/4ii 618 crosses the impressive Langweiser viaduct. 26/02/2023.
End of the line, 618 rests at Arosa. 25/02/2023.

This morning's objective was to photograph the Arosa turn again on the viaduct at Langweis- this was achieved while the other half of the group enjoyed the museums of Chur, returning back in time to watch the loco-hauled street running once more. 

In the afternoon we had planned to all take the Chur cable car up to Brambrüesch, however it was closed due to high winds so a B-plan was needed! This turned out to be a ride along the Rhein Gorge from Chur to Ilanz and back enjoying the Ge4/4ii's while they are still dominant here.

A snowy scene at Langweis as Ge4/4ii 618 arrives with the 11:37 service from Arosa to Chur. 26/02/2023.

Back in Chur it was time for the female half of the group to depart, neatly timed for the 17:37 Chur - Zurich, booked Re4/4ii, but as had happened on my previous visit, actually covered by an Re460 - seemingly a common occurrence at weekends. Either way, the restaurant car was enjoyed by all before the split between those heading home and the three of us who were returning to Chur. 

The once regular sight of Re4/4ii locomotives at Zurich Hbf is becoming less common. The evening arrival of EC164 the 'Transalpin' from Graz brings a pair in the shape of 11121 and 11301. The shunter waits for the all clear to detach the locos from the Austrian stock. 26/02/2023.


Monday 27th February

One of the infrequent car shuttles between Andermatt and Sedrun is seen behind Deh4/4 52. These shuttles provide a connection between the cantons of Graübunden and Uri when the road pass is closed over the winter. As can be seen, traffic is generally light and it is reported that the winter of 2022/23 will be the final year of operation for these trains. 27/02/2023.
Re460 001 at Chur. 27/02/2023.

The weather forecast had turned from good to poor for today during the night, the best of the weather seeming to be around Chur. With this in mind, and after waking to a clear sky we headed around the corner to Lake Walensee to attempt a shot of EC163 'Transalpin' making its way towards Buchs and then into Austria via Lichtenstein. This worked very well, the booked pair of Re4/4ii's turning up in beautiful sunny conditions. Buoyed by our success, our 'rainy day' plan to explore Lichtenstein was set aside and we were quickly on our way back up into the mountains bound for the Oberalp Pass to try to see what we really wanted- some MGB trains in the snow!

A beautiful scene by the shores of Lake Walensee as SBB Re4/4ii locomotives 11196 and 11149 haul EC163 the 08:41 Zurich - Graz 'Transalpin' towards Buchs where the train will have a traction change before heading into Lichtenstein and Austria. 27/02/2023.

Even if we failed in our aim we knew we would have an enjoyable journey, loco hauled on the RhB up to Disentis and then onto the MGB rack system where baggage car Deh4/4 23 was to take us forward. We stopped off at Rueras to photograph the days Glacier Express and the ski shuttle which runs between Sedrun and Dieni- both captured in what has become a beautiful sunny day.

MGB Bagage CarDeh4/4 22 approaches Dieni with one of the short ski shuttles from Sedrun which convey skiers between these two resorts. 27/02/2023.

Up to Oberalp and the snow we were seeking was very much present. There was time for lunch in one of the ski restaurants, serving up a lovely cheese Rosti, before we were able to photograph a couple of trains from one of the hiking runs, including one of the occasional Andermatt to Sedrun car shuttles which are believed to be in their final season. 

HGe4/4ii 103 is at the top of the MGB as it approaches Oberalp Pass- the scene was enveloped by cloud rising up the valley just moments later. 27/02/2023.
Clinging to the valley bound for Oberalp Pass 
behind Baggage Car Deh4/4 23. 27/02/2023.

A very successful afternoon concluded and it was time to think about heading back to Chur as the sun dipped below the mountains. A plan was hatched to try a few more photos at Nastchen, where it was hoped that fresh snow over the weekend might have covered the bare ground, but we were somewhat thwarted when cloud enveloped the line almost as soon as we left Oberalp. With visibility pretty much non-existent at Naschen we continued to Andermatt and then for a run down the dramatic and incredibly steep branch to Göschenen- somewhere I had not visited since the last days before the Gotthard Base Tunnel opened. There was time to get some supplies for the now fairly lengthy journey back by way of Deh4/4 96 up to Andermatt, GEh4/4ii 3 forward to Disentis and finally Ge4/4ii 621 or the RhB on to Chur. The final move was to a very cheesy restaurant for our final nights meal!


Tuesday 28th February

Not quite the sunny scene I was hoping for, but an atmospheric shot none the less as Swiss Express liveried Re4/4ii 11109 crosses the Rhein on the bridge at Eglisau with a Zurich - Singen (and on to Stuttgart) service. 28/02/2023.
Re4/4 543 of the Sihaltal Bahn arrives into Sood
Oberliembach with a train to Zurich. 28/02/2023

With another clear dawn, and with a good sunny weather forecast today we made our way north towards Zurich to attempt some photos of the Zurich - Singen IC's while they remain loco-hauled. This was a mistake- half way to Zurich the cloud closed in, and despite the forecasts still predicting a sunny afternoon the cloud was very much set in for the day. While we considered turning around and heading back to the mountains the forecast persuaded us to continue with our plan, winding up in a very cold and cloudy Eglisau. After the northbound IC passed with Re4/4ii 11309 we were pretty cold and realised we needed a new plan for this dismal afternoon, so we retired to a cafe to discuss options over a hot chocolate with Baileys.

The answer came in the shape of the Sihaltal Railway which runs two suburban routes, the S4 and S10 out of Zurich. While a private operator the routes are run as part of the Zurich transport network, the main attraction for railfans being tha tthe S4 is solidly worked by loco push/pull sets (while S10 is a bespoke fleet of EMU's). The locos used are small fleet of Re4/4's together with two ex-SBB Re450 sets. 

Re551 of the Sihaltal Bahn departs Sood Oberliembach bound for Zurich Hbf. 28/02/2023.

A 20 minute interval service is worked to Langnau am Albis (10 min interval in the peaks) while once an hour the train continues a further stop down the line to Sihlwald. While the route is not the most exciting, it was a good way to pass the afternoon in relative warmth, and tick off a few of the locomotives of this interesting railway.

By the time we were back in Zurich it was time for me to say my goodbye's and head to the airport, loco hauled with 460 097, for my Swiss flight back to London City.

HGe4/4ii 1 'Matterhorn' is working the Glacier Express between Rueras and Deini heading towards the Oberalp Pass. 27/02/2023.


Conclusions

Deh4/4 96 at Göschenen with the MGB shuttle
to Andermatt. 27/02/2023.

The weather hadn't always been kind to us, but despite these challenges I came away with the majority of the pictures I wanted- even better my partner had a great time and would happily return to Switzerland! Maybe not as soon as I might, as I am already looking for dates for a quick return trip to tick off a couple more shots, and of course attempt to track down RhB Ge4/4ii 614 which continues to elude me- of course it worked the Arosa trains the following weekend!

Loco haulage with Ge4/4ii's still clings on at the RhB, though there are doubts it will last out the year, while the impending invasion of units to the remaining loco-hauled services on the MGB is also now rapidly looming. That said, even with these new trains I can't see these railways being demoted from their 'best in the world' status any time soon!

Deh4/4 23 'Randa' descends from Oberalp Pass with a train from Andermatt to Disentis/Muster. This was one location where the lack of snow this season certainly wasn't evident! 27/02/2023.

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