Shanghai to London Part 13 (the final chapter!)

Berlin- London

We say goodbye to Berlin on one of these stylish ICE trains.

The final leg of our epic journey from Shanghai to London starts from where we left the last train- the upper level of Berlin Hauptbahnhof. Gone are the loco hauled trains we have been using since China, in their place for the trip to Cologne is a pair of sleek modern German ICE trains. We are on the rear portion of the train which will split en-route with the front half travelling to Dusseldorf.

The ICE is vastly more comfortable than any of the other trains we have used so far. It has large padded seats which recline slightly in an open saloon complete with power points and window blinds, the First Class facilities are even more exuberant. The train features a Board Restaurant selling meals and snacks- it looks a lot more modern than the Russian dining cars!

The interior of the ICE is comfortable and modern-
 and quite unlike the Russian style sleepers!

We are lucky that our reserved seats on the train are around a table with good views through the window, although the other seats in this bay of four are reserved we do not gain any company until well into the journey. The journey on the ICE is smooth and quiet with quite the best ride quality we have yet experienced- my handwriting is looking dramatically neater and we joke that there would be no trouble getting to sleep on this train.

Admiring the German landscape before the weather finally descends!

Having traveled a large part of the length of Germany and with the landscape and weather (which was finally changing for the worst) having altered considerably we arrive into Cologne. We have around half an hour here to complete our change onto the next ICE to Brussels. Cologne Hauptbahnhof is a large and busy station with an impressive overall roof (which is itself dwarfed by the magnificent Cathedral next to it) with many services departing on all of local, regional, intercity and international routes.

We change trains at Köln (Cologne) leaving the
conventional ICE behind, and joining a more
modern Siemens ICE 3 multiple unit.

Our train to Brussels is an ICE 3, as used on all of the international services. Interestingly the train design is almost identical to the Siemens product produced for China’s railways which we traveled on from Shanghai. The Deutsche Bahn variety is however much better appointed internally with 2+2 seating, a Board Bistro and even at seat audio entertainment. For all its qualities however the ride is a retrograde step from the conventional ICE we have just left.

There is a good level of English on the ICE trains with most staff having some language skills and most signage appearing in several languages. This does now however evade me from the (modern) age old problem: how do you lock the automatic door in the disabled toilet? There is a sign in English which tells me I should lock it, but no translation on a lock button of any instructions on how to achieve this objective. I eventually decide not to risk it and elect to walk through the train to find a toilet with a handle.

The impressive Köln (Cologne) Hbf with a DB class 101
 'Traxx' loco beneath it's roof. On the nearby track is
an ICE 3, similar to that which we will leave the country on.

At Aachen we make our final stop in Germany and the train demonstrates its multi-voltage capabilities by switching to the Belgian supply. Shortly after we are speeding through an extremely murky landscape as we finally take a dedicated high speed line- for the first time since China. We arrive into a very wet Brussels Midi on time and quickly conclude that it is not worth leaving the station to find food in light of both the weather and that we only have 45 minutes until the advised Eurostar check in time.

The Eurostar check in procedure is very simple and painless, even though we cannot use the electronic check in gates as our ticket was issued by DB (and a bargain at that being a super discounted ‘euro special’ for just €49). While I feel the Eurostar is beginning to look a little tired, something that will be addressed soon by a fleet refurbishment, it is most certainly the quickest and most comfortable way to cross the channel.

The weather has very much turned for the worst by the
time we board our Eurostar in Brussels. 

France is not seen at its best in the gloom but before long, and with a brief wait for a ‘Shuttle’ to go in front of us we dive into the channel tunnel and leave continental Europe behind us. 20 minutes later we emerge in England where the weather is, unsurprisingly, no better! As familiar landmarks such as the QEII bridge over the Thames appear to whiz past us on our high speed line there is time to contemplate just how far this journey has taken us and that we are, save for the tube and a local train, almost at the end of our journey.

Since its construction W H Barlow’s magnificent trainshed at St Pancras has welcomed many a weary passenger after their journey by rail. One wonders if he could ever have imagined that his station, refurbished fit for the 21st century could be the ending of a journey quite as remarkable as this.

Two continents, nine countries, eight nights on trains, somewhere around ten thousand miles and many many memorable experiences later  we have arrived back in London by Eurostar. The end of quite a phenomenal trip.

Shanghai to London Part 12

Warsaw- Berlin

ET22-960 is seen crossing the Vestula River with a
Przewozy Regionalne train heading for Warsawza Centralna.

It seems a long time since we have been on a conventional western train, or even say in day seats. The process is all a lot simpler than the sleepers we have come used to where you are checked into the train by an attendant. We therefore don’t leave quite as much time between arriving at Warsawza Centralna and boarding our train- EC42 the ‘Berlin- Warsaw Express’. This decision almost proves costly as a large number of people have accumulated outside the left luggage facility who were not there earlier!

The Zakopane train departs from Warsaw Centralna- Not one
of the worlds prettiest stations with all it's lines underground.

Thankfully all is well and we make it to the platform (complete with luggage) with a couple of minutes to spare. Our train has not yet arrived (the previous departure to Zakopane still occupies the platform) and it is several minutes behind schedule when the ‘Taurus’ Locomotive, or EU43 to give its Polish designation pulls in with our EuroCity to Berlin. We board and find our reserved seats (compulsory on this train) in the open coach at the front- though there are also coaches with compartments and a restaurant car.

In preparation for the approaching Euro 2012 football tournament PKP intercity has re-liveried a locomotive into the colours of each competing country as well as a set of locos depicting Polish stadiums. Our locomotive, EU43 001 is appropriately the loco representing Poland and carries the colours of the Polish flag with silhouettes of football fans on it. Shortly after  departing Warsaw we pass another ‘Taurus’ loco, this time depicting the colours of the co-hosts- Ukraine.

Out Polish liveried locomotive (for the Euro 2012 competition)
pauses at Konin with the Warsaw-Berlin Express

The scenery through Poland is nothing if not flat, plain and green but the trains progress is rapid. It seems as if we have reached Poznan, the largest intermediate city on the route in no time- or maybe 3 hours seems short now compared to the more lengthy journeys which are now behind us. Before too long we find ourselves crossing the river Oder and entering Germany. 

The approach to Berlin from this direction is most pleasing as the train passes along the elevated track which runs through the city criss-crossing the river several times and affording views of many of the most famous sights in the city including the TV tower in Alexanderplatz and the dome of the cities Cathedral. Berlin's new Hauptbahnhof is quite a structure as well in its own right. Our train arrives at the higher level, but there are more platforms many floors below at the bottom of the giant steel and glass atrium. We disembark the train and it leaves shortly after to be serviced while we make our way into the city.

EU43-001 stands on the high level platforms at Berlin Hauptbahnhof after arrival from Warsaw.

Shanghai to London Part 11

Kiev- Warsaw

The departure of train No.67 from Kiev is shortly after 3pm. It is a hot day and we have lugged our bags across town for 30 minutes to reach the station, we therefore spent the remaining time before departure buying water and supplies. When we reach the platform we find that our train is a short one, formed of just four coaches. Three of them are Ukrainian while the fourth is Polish and wears PKP Intercity Night colours. The whole formation will be hauled by a CHS4 locomotive.

Our train to Warsaw stands at Shepetivka, Ukraine where a pause
gives us the opportunity to buy snacks from the station vendors.

For this train we are travelling in a private 2 berth compartment located in the Polish coach (This was all I could book even though there are 3 coaches of our usual ‘Kupe’ accommodation on the train). Except for its livery this coach sticks out for being to the smaller European gauge and internally lacks the hot water boiler we have become used to. It does however have a very pleasant Polish attendant (with good English) from their service company WARS and a full set of opening windows which make the coach pleasantly cool in comparison to the rest of the train.

We pass numerous CHME3 shunting locomotives.

Upon leaving Kiev I take my position by the open window- it is refreshing to feel the wind on your face on a hot sunny afternoon as this is. As we leave the city behind the green landscape appears once again beside the track. The scenery changes very little over the next few hours- in fact I have seen little of any significance by the time we slow for our first stop, by which time the sun is setting.

At our stop I am somewhat surprised to see platform traders! We had expected them all trip but throughout China, Mongolia and Russia they had never come- now somewhere in the Ukraine they had arrived. The traders were most useful as well since we were under-stocked with essentials for this journey and had no time to stray from the train as it paused. Despite the language barrier we managed to obtain some pancakes, dumplings and a bottle of coke to supplement our staple of noodles. The food turned out to be pleasant even if none of the fillings were quite what we would have expected. It also had the unfortunate effect of getting grease on my trousers as I ate from a bag on my lap, there being no usefully placed table in our compartment- the effect on my trousers is rather annoying as I am running out of spares by this point in the trip!

After dinner and a bit of reading it is time to configure the beds for the night. We have not had a compartment like this before with beds just on one side and a sink-come table and storage on the other. The compartment has several positions for the bunks as it can be arranged for either two or three persons- each with a little more room when set up for two. Eventually after much tinkering with the top bunk we have to concede defeat and ask the attendant for help. He is quickly on the scene and has the bed just where we want it in a flash.

At around midnight the train pauses for a traction swap. The line across the border into Poland is not electrified so the locomotive from Kiev gives way to an M62 for the last stretch of the journey to the border. Once there border immigration officers are quick to board the train to collect our passports. Simultaneously the M62 is removed from the front of the train with CHME3-1534 appearing at the rear of the train- for there is more than just immigration to take place here.

Inside the gauge change shed at the Ukraine - Poland border.

Passports gathered and a panel in the ceiling of our coach removed and inspected we are shunted into the gauge change shed. Here our coaches will undergo two changes to make them fit for Polish rails. Firstly the bogies will be exchanged from Russian broad gauge to Standard gauge and secondly all the couplings will be changed over from buckeyes to the more familiar three link style.

The couplings are first to be changed. A gantry crane is used to take the weight of the buckeye before it is physically pulled out of the coach. The process is then reversed to insert the three link coupler, which looks flimsy by comparison. This process complete each coach is hoisted up into the air to have its bogies exchanged. First the pin which holds the bogie in place is removed internally, only then can the coach lift begin leaving the broad gauge bogies on the rails below. These are wheeled out underneath the train to the ‘broad gauge’ end, while standard gauge bogies are rolled under in the same direction. The coaches can then be lowered back onto the new bogies, any physical connections made and the bogie pin replaced. While the process is fairly slick it is not especially fast- the four coaches are inside the shed for well over an hour.

The train rolls towards the Polish capital.

The bogie and coupling changes complete the train can be shunted back together (this time with a standard gauge loco- another M62) and driven out of the shed on to standard gauge rails from the opposite end to which we entered. From here the whole train can be propelled back into the station where officials have our passports waiting for us. Eventually we depart the Ukrainian border behind a Polish SM48 locomotive (these are the Polish designation for the TEM2 locos we have seen so many of earlier in the trip). It does not have very far to take us before we reach the Polish border station and must once more relinquish our passports. By now it is approaching 4am and with the majority of interest in the loco changes and the bogie swap behind I retreat to bed. It seems incredible to me that with the exception of communicating with customs many of the passengers appear to have been sound asleep for the duration of these events. We are interrupted one final time when our passports are returned and are offered a stamp- which of course we say ‘yes’ to- it isn't easy to get a passport stamp within the EU these days on a British passport.

Arrival at Warsaw Gdanska with Polish EU07-377.

I must have fallen asleep with ease as my next recollection is waking to the call of ’30 minutes to Warsaw’ from the coach attendant. This gives time to wash and pack our bags before we cross the river and arrive at our destination station Warsaw Gdanska. We have arrived behind an EU07 locomotive (based on the British class 85) which took over the train at some point in the night. From here it is just a short metro ride to Centralna station and the city centre. Well, at least it would be if the central section of the Warsaw metro were not shut!

Shanghai to London Part 10

Moscow- Kiev

Moscow Kievska is the grandest of the cities stations.

It is dusk by the time we arrive at Moscow Kievska station for our overnight train to Kiev. This is one of the more grand of Moscow’s railway stations both above and below ground- Many of Moscow’s metro stations look more like palaces than railway stations! Getting into the station however is a little more difficult than it could be. The entrance near to the metro station is only for the airport train, and there appears to be no way in from the front of the building either. Eventually we follow some people around the far side through what appears to be a building site to find the trains. Ours, train No.005, the 21:29 to Kiev is right in front of us on one of the outdoor platforms.

Platzkart- Not luxurious- but quite adequate for a nights
sleep. Some coaches pack in even more beds than this.

There is some question over our accommodation on this train. I have booked 3^rd class ‘Platzkart’ (essentially open bunks) but the English cover letter reads ‘1^st class with services’- clearly I am hoping for the latter. On initially seeing our coach, with partitions I comment ‘well, it’s not Platzkart’ but once we step inside it is clear that I have been mistaken- it is! The second thing I notice about the train is the stifling heat. We have the small window to our bay of beds open but it makes little difference- the heat is almost reminiscent of the Russian Banya- except that in the bath house there is a plunge pool of cold water to cool off in, oh- and men beating themselves with Oak branches. For better or worse this is not happening on the train.

We bid goodbye to Russia with our CHS7 loco.

We depart Moscow on time (it is almost totally dark outside now) behind our CHS7 locomotive. Almost immediately entry cards for the Ukraine are handed out.  It is clear that many of the passengers (myself included) are already tired and it is not long before the coach is in sleeping formation and the lights are dimmed.

Passengers are awoken at some stage during the night for Russian border control. While still inconvenient the process at the border between these former Soviet states is far less strenuous than the crossing from Mongolia was. I struggle to get back to sleep after this, not helped by a blocked nose, but it seems I did achieve sleep just in time to be woken by the next interruption- entry into the Ukraine. This procedure again is not arduous and we are finally free of visas and back in the EU. It is already starting to get light but there is definitely still the potential for a little further rest.

The sun is still shining the following morning as CHS4-102
is uncoupled from our train at Kiev Pass.

I wake up a while later and decide to spend the remainder of the journey admiring the Ukrainian landscape. As it turns out I have longer for this activity than I expected as the time zones have shifted once more. Initial impressions are quite different from the barren birch woodland I have grown used to on the Trans-Siberian. To start with brown has given way to green and the tree species have diversified hugely- the Birch which is present here is also covered in new leaves. The land is more utilized as well, there are more houses and extensive farming. All in all it is a pleasant outlook and it seems we are in store for yet another warm sunny day. By the time we cross the mighty Dnipro River downtown Kiev is very much in sight. It is not long before we pull into the platforms at Kiev Pass. I think we are a little late, but am in all honesty so confused by the times of this train by this point that I really can’t say- either way we have arrived, and have survived the night in ‘Platzkart’!

Shanghai to London Part 9

Tyumen (Ural Mountains)- Moscow

Having passed into the Urals there is little to note on the journey until our arrival in Yckaterinburg. Firstly it is the departure point of the Australian couple who have been travelling on the same trains us as since Beijing. We bid our farewells and will now continue the trip as the only English speakers (that we know of) on the train for the next 24 hours to Moscow. While the guidebooks all seem to imply that our train, No.1, is busy with tourists this has been contrary to our experience. Also at odds with the books is the buying experience at stations. We came prepared to be bombarded by an assortment of wheeler-dealers trying to sell us everything from the essential water and noodles to silk ties and garden sheds. This is not the case and it is the best we can do to maintain our supplies of essentials from the platform kiosks, which are at least plentiful.

TEP70-0520 waits on another train at Yckaterinburg. I had
been hoping to see one of these typical Soviet diesel locos on
this trip. The vehicle behind the loco is supplying fresh coal
for the carriage stoves!

Yckaterinburg is also the location of a locomotive change. The previous loco has remained with the train for a good 24 hours and is duly replaced by a CHS2- A Skoda build loco which looks identical to the Czechoslovakian locos found across eastern Europe and which can trace their origins back to the Swiss RE6/6’s. Certainly it is our oldest electric so far and while still being a Co-Co it is also much smaller that our other locos.

Skoda built CHS2 616 backs onto the 'Rossiya'

Like the previous day we will not be receiving a complimentary evening meal and having exhausted the Vodka supply (a feat we feared impossible), so Simon and I head to the dining car for some sustenance. As we wait for our food we pass another milestone (quite literally) on the journey- an obelisk at milepost 1777 which marks our passing from Asia into Europe. While it feels we are making steady progress back to London we must remember that we are still the whole of Europe away! Dinner arrives promptly and while neither a large portion or particularly good value the Russian take on ham and eggs with fried vegetables is most pleasant and the dining car does at least provide a change of scenery.

The Skoda locomotive is still in charge as we make an
overnight stop at Perm.

Back in the cabin the remainder of the evening is spent with my i-pod and making journal notes. It is quite nice to watch the sun set over the Urals without the addition of Vodka as we prepare to settle in for our final night on the Trans-Siberian Railway. Next morning comes and my hair feels even more disgusting than the day before- even so my morning freshen up in the toilet leaves me feeling awake and ready to face the day. It is amazing what a difference can be made by splashing around a little bit of water. Breakfast consists of the last remaining food from yesterdays ‘Supply stops’, which includes a bag of filled mini-croissants which turn out to be really quite tasty. A short while later we are perplexed when our bag containing water and condiments is delivered- usually the precursor to receiving our ‘Diet of guaranteed daily supply’, or meal to you and me.

It is some while later, around 11am when the meal, which we must assume is lunch, is delivered. My chicken soup may only contain one chunk of meat, but it fills a hole.

After our early breakfast there is plenty of time to observe the landscape once again. The Urals have now given way to largely flat land again- populated by pine and birch trees surprise, surprise! In fairness the scenery has altered slightly- there is a lot more water around and even occasional evidence of some farming. We can even see some shoots of green grass breaking through the monotonous brown vegetation from time to time.

A high speed 'Sapsan' train from the Siemens Velaro family.

Our first stop today is late morning and Nizhny Novgorod. I make my customary stroll to the front of the train to see what is now in charge following an overnight loco swap. The answer is a CHS4- a large maroon loco that will surely take us all the way to Moscow, now a mere 8 hours away. There is another surprise at Nizhry Novgorod- in the adjacent platform is one of Russia’s premiere ‘Sapsan’ trains- The familiar Siemens Velario- or ‘ICE 3’ again. These trains work the high speed services from Moscow to St Petersburg as well as a few services to Moscow from Nizhry Novgorod. I catch a crew member from the ‘Roissya’ taking a picture from the side our train, but while walking back myself I am informed by security that I cannot take pictures- the second time I have been approached now in Russia. Fortunately I have what I want so I head back to the train without further issue.

Back on our train the compartment is starting to get very warm again. Whoever wrote the guidebooks which deplore April as ‘possibly the worst month’ to travel the Trans-Siberian have clearly not had the weather we have enjoyed. There has barely been a day without sunshine since I landed in Shanghai yet there is still the last evidence of snow and ice around in places- the best of both worlds surely?

As we approach Moscow we start to see more local trains
such as this stylised Russian EMU at Nizhry Novgorod.

One thing the guidebooks have got right is the advice to bring a good book, or several. Simon is still munching his way through Sunflower seeds as he tackles Dickens' ‘Great Expectations’, quite a heavy read. I have now finished my somewhat lighter book and am left to brush up on my history of Moscow from my Lonely Planet guide as I am not about to embark on a novel now!

Early afternoon it is time for our final scheduled stop before Moscow at Vladimir, some 200km from the capital. To my surprise, but not displeasure, our locomotive is being detached- our third loco change now in less than 24 hours! This time it is a double unit electric of class CHS7 that backs onto the train. Aside from this activity the station is fairly quiet, most likely because it is a Sunday (this would also explain the decrease in passing freight I have noticed). This leaves me time to photograph the plinthed steam loco, of which every major station seems to have at least one, before re-boarding the train for the final time.

CHS4 698 is released from the train during our
final loco swap at Vladimir.

Around two hours before Moscow there is a clear feeling in the air of our compartment that the journeys end is approaching. One by one the four of us start to collect our scattering of possessions and pack our bags. We also start to tidy up the cabin, returning our sheets to the Provodnista and finishing off the last of our supply of junk food. We even unearth enough Vodka for one final toast.

With articulated CHS7-071 at it's head, train No.1 stands at
Moscow Yarinslavsky with the arrival from Vladivostok.

Knowing we are not going to be on the train too much longer makes the last couple of hours pass more quickly. Before we know it we have slowed to pass through the Moscow suburbs and suburban trains are passing either side of us. One wonders how many of the people on the platforms we pass can ever imagine that this train has journeyed all the way from Vladivostok? Arrival at Moscow Yarinslavsky is on time at 17:43. The station is not the impressive architecturally rich trainshed I was expecting but open platforms from where one can walk straight onto the streets of Moscow. The train journey has certainly been an incredible experience and one which I shall never forget. However after three days and three nights aboard we are not sad to see the train go and will be even happier once we have had a shower!

Shanghai to London Part 8

Irkutsk- Tyumen (Ural Mountains)

The day before our departure from Irkutsk  a 3PIP and TEM18D are seen at
Irkutsk station in beautiful sunshine. There had been some overnight snowfall
(apparently unusual for the time of year) presenting a wonderful Siberian railway image.

Train No.1 the 'Rossiya' part way
through it's 7 day journey from
Vladivostock to Moscow 

We arrive at Irkutsk station with plenty of time to spare for our train to Moscow. As we wait I am pleased to see a freight train approaching- there is an avoiding line around Irkutsk so the amount of freight which can be seen from the station is limited. The train turns out to be hauled by a triple electric, it’s cargo is a long line of tank wagons. This distraction aside it is time to board our train, No.1, The ‘Rossiya’. On an adjacent platform is another slower train to Moscow which will depart in front of us.

A triple VL80 formation heads a long freight through Irkutsk

The ‘Roissya’ is one of the most prestigious trains on the Russian network (Higher quality trains have lower numbers) and as such is classed as a ‘firemany’ train. As soon as we step on board it is obvious that this train is of a slightly higher quality than those we have ridden previously. For starters the coaches are newer and feature electric operated doors between them. Inside our compartment there are individual reading lights and sockets for a music system. We even have a power socket and a television- all the channels are in Russian of course! The beds are better too- quite the most comfortable we have seen yet with a mattress which folds down on top of the seats.

We are once again travelling ‘Kupe’ in a 4 bed compartment and it is not long before we meet our cabin mates who will accompany us to Moscow. Andre, from Russia is already on board the train and Oleg, a Ukrainian joins at the next stop. We finally seem to have escaped the tourists and have gained some more local company.

EP1 140 will haul the Rossiya away from Irkutsk.
Note the many parcel vans at the front of the train.

Some stereotypes are true- and we quickly discover that the Russians drinking Vodka is one of these. It only takes one look at my friend Simon’s beer for the ‘superior’ drink to be produced. It would be rude to refuse the Vodka, which is drunk straight, so we oblige and the tone for the evening is set. While the shots are not small the Russians are quick to make sure that the Vodka is not sent down to an empty stomach- after each round some food is offered around the table, be it bread, meat, cheese or frankly anything else from our food bags.

The Vodka drinking has begun and Simon has relinquished
his Manchester United football shirt!

The drinking is interrupted by dinner, which is most welcome. Given the length of this journey (3 days and 3 nights) we have paid for meals on the train, although exactly what this entitles us to is unclear. Plastic food containers arrive at the door and we enjoy our basic rice and soup which is pleasant enough. After dinner the drinking continues, although we are joined by the Australians who shared our cabin on the previous train (this time they are staying in a private 2 bed cabin).

Several bottles of Vodka later and we are still struggling with the language barrier, but Simon has successfully managed to swap his Manchester United football shirt with Olag who has sacrificed his much larger corporate polo shirt in exchange!

Endless Birch woodland- a view I would get used to!

We are woken earlier than I would choose the following morning- though the exact time is difficult to know due to the constantly changing time zones. The trains runs to Moscow time, which was 5 hours ahead when we boarded in Irkutsk, but now nobody [who speaks English at least] seems to know what the local time is. The Russians put our reluctance to get out of bed down to the Vodka- the fact that I have not had an awful lot of sleep overnight due to being on a train seems lost on them. Either way the morning is greeted with- yes, you guessed it- more Vodka. Having done my morning shot it is time to brush my teeth!

Our Russian friends have truly come prepared. In addition to the numerous bottles of Vodka they carry the also put out a decent spread for breakfast including bread, cheese, hard boiled eggs and pickled gherkins- for those who are that way inclined.

EPIP- 044 takes charge of the train at Krasnoyask.

There is plenty going on around the station. A single
unit VL60 is seen shunting from the  stabling point.

The morning passes slowly and the landscape has become less interesting. The endless Birch woodland is occasionally broken up by small villages and a steady flow of freight trains in the opposite direction. For something to do I start to count the number of wagons on the passing trains, regularly getting into the high sixties. These are long trains and the use of double, sometimes even triple, locos certainly seems justified. Around lunchtime we come to our first major stop (though there were some overnight) at Krasnoyask. The opportunity to stretch our legs is welcome and I am also able to get some photos during our 25 minute stop. Traction on our train changed overnight and now a blue EPIP loco is in charge of the train. The station is a hive of activity with several locos pottering around as well as another plinthed steam locomotive. There is also just time to head into the station to acquire some food- this process is complicated by the fact that all the vending kiosks require the customer to ask for the product which the attendant will then deliver through a small window. Very simple when you speak Russian, very difficult when you don’t!

The sun has finally stopped following us by Marinsk
where a new  locomotive in the form of EP2K-092
takes over the train.

Back on the train lunch is delivered to our compartment- once again in plastic trays- I have also decided that it is about time to reduce my Vodka intake, so I begin to dismiss every other round- this appears to be acceptable. With lunch over the weather begins to deteriate and with nothing better to do all agree it is time for an afternoon nap. We awake before our second stop of the day at Marinsk. In the dull weather our locomotive is changed once again, this time to a large red EP2K electric.

Later on as evening begins it is time to get social again, which does, of course, produce another bottle of Vodka from the seemingly endless supply. Unlike the previous night we actually have a reason to celebrate (and to drink) today- it is Simon’s Birthday and nobody is about to allow the evening to pass without it being memorable! Our drinking friends decide it will be a good idea to make a list of the Vodka we have drunk, so this is began in the back of my notebook- as the evening wears on the list would worryingly expand! We are not served an evening meal on the train, but between our party we have a wide assortment of snacks, including a Swiss Roll which will have to make do as a Birthday cake. The snacks area important as they will be our ‘Zakuska’, the food which we shall eat between our Vodka shots. This is very important as it will hopefully keep us sitting upright and also today it will be our dinner. Olag explains the all important chain of events- ‘Vodka, Zakuska, Vodka, Zakuska...’ and so on. We are soon joined by our Australian friends- Gavin and Catherine and the party really gets going. Before we know it the laptops have come out, the music is playing and everyone joins in a colourful debate on the quality of Russian pop music. We eventually settle into some Bon Jovi- ‘It’s my life’ Oleg tells us while gesturing to the Vodka bottle.

Sunset on the Trans Siberian.

We get something of a lie-in the following morning and deserved it is too- it must have been well gone midnight when we eventually went to bed and the Vodka list reveals that the past 36 hours have seen a total of 11 bottles consumed, largely between the four of us in our compartment. It is no surprise that Simon is nursing a sore head- though I appear to have survived in a somewhat better condition. Maybe the Vodka likes me- or maybe I just drank less!?

A TEM18DM shunts at Tyumen station while Skoda built
electric CHS2 awaits departure with a parcels train.

The morning passes without much event and we managed to survive until lunch before half a glass of Vodka manifests itself next to our plastic encased meal. The train pauses at Ishin in the morning and later on at Tyumen- at which point we officially exit Siberia and enter the Urals. This set of hill is not described favourably in the guide books- apparently they are not very high, not very interesting and a general disappointment! Certainly the landscape changes very little for the time being.

Shanghai to London- Part 7

Nauschk (Russia)- Irkutsk

Half of loco 2TE10M-K-3001 will haul us forward from the Russian Border.
It is seen here arriving from Ulan Ude- while we have been away from the
station it has turned and attached to our portion of train 263.

While we have been out buying Russian snacks our train has been augmented with a further five coaches, including a dining car. The all wear the Russian railways colours of grey and red leaving our own Mongolian coach looking slightly out of place at the back of the train. Traction has changed again also- we now have one half of a 2TE10 at the helm. A nice noisy, powerful and smokey machine, if a little hard on the eyes. Once on the move our first impressions of the Siberian landscape exceed expectations. Passing the window we see mountains and frozen rivers, the scenery reaching its climax as we follow the shoreline of the fantastic Goose lake in the last of the days sunlight.

Incredible views from the rear vestibule as we pass the
semi-frozen Goose lake. Sadly the mighty lake Baikal
will fall under the hours of darkness on this trip.

Our first Russian Dining car- not my favourite of the trip!

With the view from the window over for the day attention next turns to the evening meal- despite having spent so much of the afternoon munching through the food we brought at the border. A Russian dining car is now in the consist of the train, but after a quick exploratory trip it turns out that the meal prices are almost as off-putting as the loud Russian pop music blaring from the attendants portable CD Player. Instead we decided to go back to our coach of westerners and enjoy some good old instant noodles- on this occasion enhanced by some slightly odd looking tinned sausage. Noodles are somewhat of a mainstay on these trains as there is a constant supply of boiling water available. The water boiler, or samovar is, incredibly, coal fired! It is one of the duties of the carriage attendant, or Provodnik to shovel coal into the back of the boiler to maintain the heat.

TEM18D 198 shunts various coaches onto our train at
Ulan Ude. The length of the train has increased significantly!

With dinner out of the way and our train still trundling along its single track line the next few hours fly by until we reach Ulan-Ude at around 10:30pm. This is an important stop on the route as it is the junction with the Trans-Siberian ‘proper’ from Vladivostok as well as being a sizeable town. Our coach empties out significantly here as several groups leave the train to explore the southern side of Lake Baikal, famed for being the world’s largest freshwater lake by volume. It is all change for the train once again as well with a further set of coaches being added behind ours, leaving our lone Mongolian car sandwiched in the middle of what is now quite a lengthy formation. In joining the main line we have also gained the benefits of overhead line electrification, which is installed throughout on the route from Vladivostok to Moscow, thus our locomotive is duly changed once again. This time our diesel finally gives away to electric traction in the form of an EP1 locomotive.

Freight loco VL85 240 awaits it's next move at Ulan Ude.
These locos became ubiquitous as we continued along the
electrified Trans-Siberian route.

EP1 136- our first Electric locomotive since China!

Most Trans-Siberian stations host a plinthed steam loco.
Sy205-91 stands guard at Ulan Ude.

During our station stop there is time for me to grab some night shots around the station, which at a glance appears to be both busy and large. Among the serviceable locos is a ‘plinthed’ steam engine on our platform. All too soon it is time to re-board the train (for I feel I could spend hours happily snapping away on this station). On board midnight is fast approaching and as we leave Ulan-Ude behind thoughts must turn towards bed- a thought made much easier now that I have acquired a spare set of ear plugs from one of my fellow travellers.

Next morning we wake at around 6:30am to an assortment of our alarms. Soon after the Provodnista knocks on the door to check that we area awake ready for our arrival in Irkutsk- a reassuring sign. Everybody is tired and it is some effort to drag ourselves out of our bunks. It turns out we are running a little late so there is time to have a quick wash- Oh how I long for a proper shower when we reach Irkutsk! There is also a moment to drag some food from the depths of my bag to serve as an impromptu breakfast.

Another beautiful day awaits- EP1 136 arrives at an
immaculate Irkutsk Station with our train from Mongolia.

Soviet trams in Irkutsk.

Arrival in Irkutsk is around 30 minutes late. The station is a large and impressive structure on the opposite side of the river to the main city. Like all the stations I have so far seen in Russia it appears to be impeccably maintained. For the first time on our trip we encounter trams running outside of the station. Much as I had expected they have a very familiar Soviet look, very much like the examples I have seen on previous trips to Poland- despite it being some 5000km away! Our hostel is very close to the railway station so it will not be necessary to board a tram today as the walk is less than 10 minutes.

Shanghai to London- Part 6

Ulaanbaatar (Mongolia) - Nauschk (Russia)

The preceding train departs from Ulaanbaatar

It is dark by the time we arrive at Ulaanbaatar station for train 263 to Irkutsk. There is a train in the platform upon our arrival- it is about to depart so a quick check with the platform staff is made to ensure that w are not in the process of missing our train. ‘Next train’ is the response when I flash my ticket. Sure enough not long after the first train has departed a TEM2 loco appears hauling in the stock for train 263, which runs daily to Irkutsk starting in Ulaanbaatar. Traction for this train, which is much shorter than our last is a single locomotive: M62M-018.

We take our bunks in coach number one and quickly discover that all the other westerners seem to be here also. We are sharing our 4 berth ‘Kupe’ compartment with an Australian couple who area also travelling to England over land- all be it by a different route to us after Moscow. The ‘Intrepid’ tour group whom we met on train K3 are also onboard, along with several other familiar faces. It certainly feels good to be back on the train after two nights staying with Nomads in the Mongolian countryside and having exhausted the entertainment that Ulaanbaatar has to offer.

The train departs as scheduled at 21:10. After settling into our compartment and receiving our sheets for the night we move down to join the ‘party’ in the cabin of the ‘Intrepid’ group. We have a selection of food and a hip flask of Vodka which my friend has brought along- keen to experience the real Russian train experience. The next couple of hours fly by and it is only when we feel we are keeping the rest of the coach up that we retreat to bed. We are all aware that we will have an early wake-up call in the morning by Mongolian border control.

TEM2 6541 will haul our single coach across the border

M62YM-015 keeps me entertained as it shunts around the
yard. Note the high Mongolian exhaust stack which
distinguishes these locos from their sisters in neighbouring
countries.

It is around 8am when the knock comes on the door with the obligatory customs forms. This is a pleasant surprise as it had been feared that we would be woken around 5:30am, the time when the train arrived at the border town of Sukbator. In the meantime we have discovered the reason that all the westerners bound for Russia are in coach 1- The rest of the train, along with our locomotive is nowhere to be seen. The single car is now hooked up to a TEM2 locomotive while there is some entertainment in the adjacent yard from another M62 which is shunting. There is also time for a quick toilet break to freshen up (The toilets flush to the track and are therefore shut for long periods when the train is stationary) before the Mongolian customs process begins. Our belief that this would be simpler than the border with China (after all there is no gauge change here) is quickly dispelled. The Mongolian officials spend a long time checking we are who we say we are and even carry out a quick search of our compartment which involves removing a large pile of dirty laundry from one or the passengers bags. While fairly severe these precautions may not be undue as the Mongolian lady in the far compartment seems to have a rather unusual array of possessions which keep appearing hidden in various places. Just a selection of these items include a used car tyre (wrapped), numerous bottles of whisky and what appears to be a lifetime supply of jeans. She is later seen wandering the corridor with a collection of frying pans...

Stunning scenery on the Mongolia- Russia border

 Some while later we eventually leave the border station and begin our journey through ‘no mans land’ to repeat the process on entering Russia. The landscape here is stunning once again, it would strongly resemble the African Savannah if it were not for the semi-frozen rivers running next to the railway.

My first steps on Russian soil- Nauschka station, Siberia

Security here is tough and our single coach train passes numerous lighting gantries, outposts and cameras before arriving at the Russian border at Nauschka. Officials are quick to board the train here and hand our arrival cards. There is much commotion when one of our Australian friends fills out his form incorrectly. Our assumption that he can simply acquire a replacement form seems beyond the realm of reason to the immigration officer and he is left to fill out a rather spoiled form until a more pleasant official relents and produces a clean form for him. The train is searched once again, this time also with dogs, yet the mysterious used tyre still seems to raise no eyebrows!

A monster of a locomotive, Russian 2TE10M-K-3066
is shunting around the yard at Nauschka

With customs finally complete we are free to enter Russia- however the train is not booked to leave the border for a further three hours. This allows us passengers time to sit down to lunch at the local cafe, buy some supplies for the journey ahead and generally pace up and down the platform wearing shorts. Yes- Shorts. It seems this particular April day in Siberia is warmer than had been expected, indeed my first Siberian purchase is an ice cream!

Our lonely coach has made it across and is now shunted by TE18 218