Wednesday 24 November 2021

24 October – 5 November 2021 ÖBB MÁV ZSSK Trip Report

India   USA   Romania   Austria –  Hungary – Slovakia.

Part 1 - Austria


1216 024 climbs the north ramp of the Brenner Pass approaching St. Jodok with EC85 from Munich to Bologna. 26.10.2021

Introduction:

Global travel was supposed to be easier in 2021? Well- at least that is what we were told in 2020, and on that basis leave was booked at the beginning of the year to spend three weeks enjoying the railways of India, after the 2020 attempt was obviously aborted. Of course our good friend Covid-19 had other ideas and with the Indian borders still firmly closed to tourists during October another destination would need to be found.

The next obvious place for a lengthy trip was the USA which I had not visited for a few years and which still has many rail wonders to explore- but of course that was not going to open up to foreign travel until I was back at work either.

ÖBB's 1216 025, the world record holder having attained 137kph leads a
lightly loaded rolling road at Gries am Brenner. 26.10.2021

Something in Europe was clearly the sensible option and therefore a detailed plan was put together for a return to Romania where Covid cases were low at the end of summer and restrictions appeared to be relaxed- plus it was on the UK governments, at the time ‘Green’ list. Given we had some time to spare there was the opportunity to tick off a few things on our other lists as well, a foray into Hungary in search of M41’s and a brief return to Slovakia where I was keen to have another go at the broad gauge line from Kosice as well as pick up a few more of the dwindling ‘Laminatka’ class 240’s.

In their striking, but maybe better viewed up close liveries, MRCE's 193 640 and 193 550, the former celebrating the link between Verona and Munich (so in the right place) descend the Brenner pass at St Jodok.

 

1144 261 crosses the Krauselklause Viaduct
with EC158 from Zegrab to Vienna. 25.10.2021

Bookings had been held off until the last possible moment to minimise the chances of a Covid bowl-out. It turned out to be a good move as in the weeks leading up to the trip the case rate in Romania started to take a worrying upward trend- maybe not so concerning itself since we were all fully vaccinated and the UK seemed unlikely to prevent us coming home, but certainly an annoyance when the reinstatement of some restrictions started to be mentioned. On the Friday just two days before we were due to fly out the trip had still yet to be booked, and the attempt at a government in Romania made their move on restrictions; Masks to be worn in public at all times (including in the streets), restrictions on travel overnight and early closure of restaurants and bars. This was not what we needed for our trip and therefore the plan was binned at the 11th hour. What to do instead? I had for some time had the mountain passes of Austria on my list – the weather was looking much better there than further east and with a reasonable flight available from Luton to Vienna on Sunday afternoon a new plan was quickly cobbled together.

 



Sunday 24th October:

Not a train day really, in fact rather than meeting at the airport the trip participants met in my living room for a last minute planning session on our revised itinerary – including booking accommodation for that night. I would say the journey to Luton was uneventful but some idiot (me) managed to loose part of their luggage on the train. It is fair to say I hadn’t planned on making an extra trip to Bedford before the flight, but somehow still managed to make check in! One thing that must be said for Wizz air over Ryanair is that they do seem to have a vested interest in actually getting you on the flight you have booked- speeding you through check-in if the time is getting a bit tight. I understand Ryanair simply tell you that you should have got to the airport earlier!

One panic over it should have been plain sailing, well, flying to Austria- but this was not the case.

1216 003 approaches Jenbach on the Inn Valley. 29.10.2021

We were aware that FFP2 masks were a requirement on public transport in Austria, and had therefore attempted in vein to procure some before leaving the UK. What we had not anticipated however is that we would be told at the gate that they were also required for the flight. This wouldn’t have been such a problem if it were not for the fact that as well as the Boots we had tried back home, all of the airport retailers had sold out. The only source was a painfully slow vending machine near the gate which had approximately 6 masks in it. They didn’t last long when circa 50 passengers attempted to buy them! Fortunately due to the good nature and better preparedness those of us without were able to beg steal and borrow some masks from those in the queue and everyone made the flight. Disaster number two averted, and I’m really pleased to say that for the next 12 days there really wouldn’t be any more!

D15 (a Gmeinder D 75 BB-SE) approaches Schlitters-Bruck on the Zillertalbahn. 28.10.2021

Arrival in Vienna was slightly late and as expected the direct trains to the Hauptbahnhof had finished for the night. We were treated to a couple of their very nicely appointed new units for the journey on the suburban network arriving at our hotel not long before midnight. Finally in Europe there was just time for a beer in the hotel bar.

  

1144 009 pilots 1293 027 over the Krauselklause Viaduct on the Semmering Pass. 25.10.2021

Monday 25th October: 

We had hurried out to Vienna the previous night as the forecast had been good today, and indeed the day dawned to clear skies. We were bound for the Semmering pass and elected to take the Morning EC151. This turned out to be an great move both netting us a 1144 rather than the expected Taurus and also providing us an excellent freshly cooked breakfast in the Slovenian dining car. Having already concluded that we did not find the FFP2 masks we had borrowed comfortable we would spend much of our time within Austria enjoying restaurant cars – while the masks are compulsory on public transport they are not in restaurants, including if that restaurant happens to be on the train!

 We enjoyed some wonderful Autumn light up to Semmering where we were plunged into a bitter cloud just a few meters above the station while walking to our apartment which we had booked the previous night. There was a little excitement on route as we passed green 2143 040 parked up at Wiener Neustadt. The pictures through the window were abysmal but given how few of these locos are now in operation it was good to see. It was later confirmed that this is the last operational loco with OBB- it was almost tempting to go back to try to track it down properly. 

1216 250 with a matching Czech RailJet descends towards Innsbruck. 25.10.2021
Having said there were no more disasters this trip, the accommodation here wasn’t far off. Since it wasn’t a hotel we couldn’t check in on arrival. The restaurant downstairs was expected to open at 10:00, but didn’t, as it was off season, it was bitterly cold and windy and we had nowhere to store our bags which would really not be practical to lug around the mountain environment. Fortunately after a drink stop we contacted the accommodation and arranged a storage location- we were then able to board the unit back to Breitenstein, back into the sunlight to commence our days photography perhaps a little later than planned.

1144 224 and 109 pilot 1116 130 and its train of scrap metal at Wolfsbergkogel. The former Kurhaus hotel dominates the background. 26.10.2021

Since my quick trip in 2016 I had been keen to return to the Semmering- another of Europe’s beautiful railways threatened with a base tunnel (due to open in 2027). The sinuous route comprises a number of magnificent double-stacked viaducts as it winds its way around the mountain, requiring both pilot locos and bankers to cope with the heavy grades.

A scramble up to the difficult side the Krauselklause Viaduct was our first port of call, followed by a couple of hours on the ‘easy’ side watching a variety of trains- many piloted by 1144 locos, as well as the frequent procession of RailJet’s. There were several other photographers at the spot on the ‘easy’ side south of the Viaduct, one of whom informed us that today was a quite day for freight, though he had access to the OBB system and could see what was coming. Not much than an hour later he had to retract his statement saying that actually, it had been busy!

One to try again in the summer! A RailJet crosses the Kalt-Rhein Viaduct, not quite lit by the low Autumn sunshine. 25.10.2021

Our next vantage point was the Kalt-Rhein Viaduct which curves across the valley- the only issue was the sunlight which had still not really come round enough for the shot we wanted and was rapidly disappearing behind the mountains. Concluding that it was not going to return we headed off along the ‘Bahn Wanderweg’ trail in search of other spots. This was the same path I had taken in the snow back in 2016 and it certainly felt different without the white stuff and with some company this time.

After being caught surprise by a light engine private 2043 we came across the Adlitzgraben Viaduct but by now, at not even 16:00 it was in shadow- we had underestimated how quickly we would loose the mountain light and photography for the day, really, was over. We continued along the railway path, stopping off at the famous ’20 Schilling View’ which we would revisit in the morning.

A pair of 1144's pilot a 1216 with a tank train seen crossing the Kalt-Rhein viaduct from above. 26.10.2021

It had been a long day with a lot of steps (that we really could never have done with the cases!) but we had some good pictures. We finished the evening with a very nice meal in at a nearby restaurant- we were grateful to have found somewhere open and the food was good to boot!

 

 Tuesday 26th October:

The magnificent '20 Schilling View' of the Semmering pass with a southbound car train. 26.10.2021

A minor setback rather than a disaster this morning- we got out of the apartment, having curiously spotted a 7047 railbus out the window in a garden well away from the railway – to discover that the BILLA supermarket was closed. Having not picked up any food the night before, and knowing there was no option to buy it once we left town for the day this was definitely not ideal! After a few moments trying to work out what had happened it became apparent – it was a bank holiday; Austria Day. That would surely affect train movements as well.

The Krauselklause Viaduct viewed from above as a Railjet 
makes its passage through the Semmering Pass. 26.10.2021

Complete disaster was averted when we found another hotel which was able to make us some breakfast to take away. We headed on a little later than planned to the ’20 Schilling view’ which should be right for the light in the morning. Again the Semmering trains did not disappoint and there seemed to be an extra EC this morning. Unfortunately the clear, crisp light that we wanted simply wasn’t there as the valley was in something of a haze. Still the sun was at least out which was the better side of the forecast we had seen.

After a pleasant couple of hours during which the light did not improve, we headed on to the next spot we wanted to try looking over the Viaduct at Wolfsbergkogel. The sun had not quite come over the hilltop here and we wouldn’t find out if it did as the light was soon to disappear into the looming cloud.

1144 093 approaches Wolfsbergkogel with EC158. 26.10.2021

After a good few trains it was time to call it a day, at least photographically on the Semmering. The original plan had been to travel on to Graz in the afternoon to try our luck at the diesels of the GKB system, however aware that there were engineering works on this route and that it was a Bank Holiday this option was abandoned.

Instead we opted to move on from our accommodation we had booked for that night and travel straight on to our next location, Innsbruck, so as not to miss any daylight since the forecast was still good further west. Accommodation was booked on the train and dinner enjoyed on the RailJet from Vienna to Innsbruck where after the long journey we arrived around 23:00.

 

Wednesday 27th October:

Possibly the shot of the trip- Lokomotion 139 260 banks a train up the Brenner Pass at St. Jodok. 27.10.2021

My other big target for Austria was the Brenner Pass. The start wasn’t too early as we knew the sun would not come over the mountains until at least 09:00 and it was about 10:30 before we had found ourselves a position at St Jodock. Despite our original plans not to stray into the famous ‘forbidden field’ it was soon realised why everyone does- it is by far the best of very few views available here!

Lokomotion's 186 441 descends the Brenner at St. Jodok. 27.10.2021

It would appear there are two parts of the field, and I understand the one slightly further up the hill has the slightly less angry farmer. Either way, when approaching from the top of the field there is a clear sign forbidding access and photography to get past- we were not the first group to do so! (When accessed from lower down there is a sign in the fields requesting ‘photographer friends’ not to walk through grass when it is long- not an issue on our visit).

Fortunately we didn’t have to wait long to snap a good variety of trains, with 8 downhill freights in our first hour! The highlight however was Lokomotion’s 139 260 banking a train up the hill. I wasn’t sure that these locos still appeared here, so this was a real bonus and we were in the right place at the right time.

Double ÖBB Vectrons - 193 060 and 055 on the curve at St. Jodok. 27.10.2021

186 245 leads 186 440 towards St. Jodok. 27.10.2021
Not wishing to overstay our welcome and with the shots we wanted it was time to move on. We wanted to pick up some lunch supplies but unfortunately the local SPAR had burnt down and been replaced by a container of staples- fortunately we found a great deli just down the road out of town and procured some much better freshly made sandwiches than the SPAR would have provided.




The next spot, north of the station, didn’t last long at all until it was consumed by the ever-encroaching autumn shadows, and I was slightly surprised to find that the angle I had bookmarked for later on the curve above the town had also been totally lost to the shade. It was 13:00 and it looked like our photography might be done for the day- at St Jodok at least!

In it's slightly PKP EU44-esque 'Strada Bank' livery 1116 129
leads a rolling road through Gries am Brenner. 27.10.2021 

Back at the station there was maybe another hour of usable light while we waited for a train to somewhere sunnier. We made the full trip up to Brenner and for a few moments considered that we were probably now in Italy. We didn’t impress the guard too much by trying to buy tickets on the train, clearly this isn’t allowed. She did however relent when she conceded that she too didn’t know where the ticket machine was at St Jodok (it’s on the Innsbruck bound platform as it turns out).

High above the valley at Gries am Brenner, 1116 216 leads an EC towards Brenner and Italy. 27.10.2021

A few further hours were spent at Gries where the sun lasted a bit longer, but we knew the photos we were getting were not as good as those from the morning. The short days and short journey did mean an unusually sociable arrival time back in Innsbruck with time to explore the city a little before it got completely dark and to find dinner- at the Augustiner Stiftskeller – pleasantly reminiscent of Bavarian trips from the past.

  

Thursday 28th October:

D15 has just departed Strass on the Zillertalbahn as it works up the valley to Mayrhofen. 28.10.2021

Today we would have our first look at Austrian narrow gauge with a trip to the Zillertalbahn at Jenbach, a roughly 30 minute ride from Innsbruck. Research over the past few days had revealed that along with the diesel loco hauled push-pull trains freight services had also re-started this year with wood trains between Jenbach and Fügen, something we would be very keen to see.

One of the Zillertalbahn DMU's crosses the Inn on its approach to Jenbach. 29.10.2021
Little and large as diminutive 760mm D1 stands next to standard
gauge D01 sitting on a roll-wagon in the yard at Jenbach. 28.10.2021

We started the day on the 08:50 regional service which I had correctly predicted would be loco hauled, well, pushed. At Jenbach we attempted to make some enquires about the freight services in the Zillertalbahn booking office but didn’t really get very far, establishing only that there was no steam at this time of year, something we had already worked out. It was however clear that there was no activity in the yard. We weren’t sure on ticketing either but came out with two, two-person region tickets which would allow the three of us to hop on and off the train all day. Unfortunately had we known about these in Innsbruck they would also have covered the journey to and from Jenbach which we had just brought return tickets for!

D16 crosses the river Ziller near Zell am Ziller with a service to Jenbach. Taken with the drone it was touch and go whether I would get this shot- initially as the drone didn't want to launch, and then with the shadows mountains chasing the train. The view was lost entirely to shadow within 30 seconds of the train passing! phew! 28.10.2021

The bridge over the Inn from ground level again with D16, 
this time hauling a train to Mayrhofen. 28.10.2021

We flagged the first Zillertalbahn train as it was a unit but were rewarded with one of their virtually silent Gmeinder D 75 BB-SE locomotives on the next. All three of the locomotives were out in the morning covering three of the five passenger diagrams, all now being vinyled in slightly different blue advertising liveries. Unfortunately despite staying fairly close to Jenbach no freight was seen, and it was looking very likely that there would be no activity today. Stopping at Fügen this was confirmed as there was work going on in the freight yard; one of the workers telling us that the train would maybe run tomorrow. While the line and it’s 760mm locomotives could scarcely be described as exciting it was a pleasant enough way to spend a day, including a very enjoyable lunch out in the sunshine at Mayrhofen. Certainly the route will be less enjoyable for the enthusiast when it converts from diesel to Hydrogen with a new fleet of HMU’s from Stadler which are due to enter service in 2022.

The S-Bend at Zell am Ziller is shown to good effect as a DMU heads south for Mayrhofen. 28.10.2021

Since our local area tickets were valid on all the public transport in Innsbruck the opportunity was taken to sample a tram from the station back to the hotel- I was beaten by those walking!

 

 Friday 29th October:

185 241 and 278 make a lucky appearance at our morning spot east of Jenbach. The majority of freight traffic bypasses this line using the Münsterer tunnel on the New Lower Inn Valley railway. 29.10.2021

This was to be our ‘mopping up’ day on the Brenner, but since we didn’t really feel there were many more shots to be had at this time of year we instead decided to stick to the Inn Valley. Our first port of call was Jenbach to check whether the Zillertalbahn freight was running- we managed to get some much more useful information from the man in the booking office this morning, who made a call, and confirmed that due to work in the customers terminal it would not be running until the following Tuesday. At least we knew.

Photography on the route along the Inn valley is difficult – effectively between Innsbruck and Wörgl this is a four-track railway. The only problem is that the new ‘fast’ lines of this four-track railway are in a tunnel for much of its length removing almost all of the loco-hauled passenger and freight traffic from the original route which is served by a frequent EMU service.

Our first spot east of Jenbach is bypassed by the tunnel, but sees a good number of the express passenger services which surface to serve Jenbach itself. A few freight trains were also seen, though clearly the huge majority were using the tunnel. We also realised that the loco hauled REX train we had taken to from Innsbruck to Jenback in the morning was pretty much the only service of this nature all day since we had seen no more!

1144 239 heads towards Innsbruck as it gets away from Inzing with a regional service. 29.10.2021

After a few shots were achieved here we moved back towards Innsbruck finding a location at Terfens-Weer. This was a mistake! It quickly became apparent that our assumption that trains serving Jenbach would be above ground here was totally wrong as all we saw were units- to make matters worse we had not had lunch and there was absolutely nothing in this small town.

1144 124 pauses at Völs with a service to Landeck-Zams. 29.10.2021

Having identified the tunnel entrance between us and Jenbach on google maps we abandoned the position, heading on the next train west to the other side of Innsbruck. We ended up at Inzing, where thankfully, there is no tunnel! Less good was the fact that we had lost a valuable hour or so of light and the valley was starting to cloud over. A good number of trains were still seen, and this is a location to perhaps revisit. An added bonus here is that many (but not all) of the hourly Innsbruck – to Landeck-Zams were in the hands of a mix of 1144 and 1216 locos on push-pull sets.

1116 128 + 282 head towards Zurich with Euro City 164 from Innsbruck. Note the observation coach carrying the 'Connecting Europe Express' livery, recently used on the train which toured 26 countries (not the UK) promoting their rail connections. 29.10.2021

The light over by 17:00 it was time to retire to Innsbruck, catching one of the Vienna CAT (City Airport Link) Taurus locos at the main station – the CAT is currently suspended due to Covid 19 with the locos finding other work.

Dinner was once again at the Augustiner Stiftskeller where the last two portions of duck were enjoyed! Excellent!


Saturday 30th October:

1099 010 waits to depart from Mariazell with the 'Ötscherbär' heirtage train to St. Polten. 30.10.2021

The last day in Austria and time to transit to our accommodation for the next two nights in Budapest. I had been keen to make this journey in daylight, and much of the scenery through western Austria was indeed spectacular. Much of it however was unseen as thick fog descended between Wörgl and Kufstein which never really cleared until we were most of the way to Linz! It is worth noting that the RailJet services between Kufstein and Salzburg run non-stop through Germany. Something we were not necessarily expecting, but obviously reducing the mileage somewhat. It also leaves a very annoying gap on my track map between the station at Rosenheim and the two chords of the curve which we traversed on the Railjet!

1216 015 appropriately carries the Italian flag as it heads towards Innsbruck from Italy at St. Jodok. 27.10.2021

It is not a short journey between Innsbruck and Budapest so we were keen to have a break at some point. A bit of research the day before identified a couple of narrow gauge lines that we might be able to stop at along the way. The Pinzgauer Localbahn was discounted as being both too far away from our route and also substantially closed following storm damage, which left the Mariazellerbahn from St. Polten. This turned out to be an excellent option as the arrival of our RailJet from Innsbruck would leave just enough time for a full round trip on the line- better still this was the last running day of the season for the heritage Ötscherbärservice which we could use for the return trip.

'Himmelstreppe' EMU ET3 departs from Mariazell. 30.10.2021

All regular services on the line are worked by Himmelstreppe EMU’s from Stadler, which are comfortable if not exciting. Specials are however worked by both steam locos and a small retained fleet of the original ÖBB 1099 class electrics dating from 1911. It was 1099 010 that would work our train, the loco is turned out in a very smart new livery, a cross between the original brown colour and the current gold scheme used on the EMU’s. Standard tickets can be used, and while advanced booking is recommended there was no issue with space on this occasion. As had been typical of our Austrian journeys we set up camp in the restaurant car and ordered both lunch and some beers while we enjoyed the ride. Also in the restaurant car we bumped into Andreas who is instrumental in ensuring that funding for the heritage services is forthcoming from the local authority. He was busy checking on the quality of the service and of the beer – we all agreed it was very good!

Scenery of the Mariazellabahn. 30.10.2021

The railway is spectacular- much more than the Zillertalbahn – and climbs high up into the mountains on it’s roughly two hour run. All too soon we were back at St. Polten to make the quick connection on to our forwarding RailJet to Budapest. At the border the buffet staff were quick to tell passengers that they no longer needed to wear their face masks and they were now in Hungary and were no longer therefore required on public transport. ‘Oh! Is there no Covid in Hungary?’ questioned one passenger. Despite these somewhat odd times there was no form of border check between Austria and Hungary and we arrived into Budapest Keleti as scheduled. It took a little longer to reach our hotel than normal as we had to negotiated the bus system- metro line 3 being closed through much of the city centre.

Determined to have a relaxing evening I left the hotel around well after 22:00 for the Rudas Thermal Spa which had a late night bathing session and was excellent, if rather busy. My departure was delayed somewhat by the useless hotel reception who decided that after assigning my room they would also allocate it to the couple behind me in the queue. Both of us were fairly surprised when they then used their key to walk into my room!

To be continued…

1 comment:

  1. great report and photographs look forward to next instalment as your journey progresses East.

    ReplyDelete