Brutalism on the Budapest Metro - A photojournal

Descent to the Soviet underground- Deák Ferenc tér station on Metro Line 3. (All photos 4th September 2017).

Beneath the streets of modern Budapest, the capital of Hungary and ninth largest city in the European Union, lay a portal to the past. While the city has proudly swept away most of the remains of its communist past it seems one piece of its infrastructure was forgotten, the beating artery that is Metro Line 3.

The original terminus of the line at Nagyvárad tér, before extension south to Kőbánya–Kispest in 1980.

Tourists seeking the communist experience may be directed to the 'Momento' park where many of the statues from the era now lie, but beneath their feet the brutalist designs of 1970's Hungary were displayed to thousands of commuters every day. 

Waiting for a ride at Klinikák station.

Opened in 1976, line 3 became something of the 'ugly' sister of the network in recent years. The famed line 1 features in all the tourist brochures with its claim to be continental Europe's oldest underground railway (the London Underground is older). While the slightly older line 2 (opened in 1970) received a major upgrade in the early 2000's with refurbished stations and brand new trains. When it came to line 3 the funds simply did not exist, and so, the route remained captive in its 1970's timewarp.

Each of the stations features differences to the bold schemes and designs used - Deák Ferenc tér features mirror lined columns and rows of square housed fluorescent tubes.

The rolling stock used on the M3 dates from the lines inauguration in 1976 and is very much of a Russian design. The original stock consists of E-series (Ev3) units built by Metrovagonmash in Saint Petersburg. Additional trains of the upgraded 81-717/81-714 design, with modified cabs, were added to the roster from 1980 as the line was extended. These trains are workhorses of so many Soviet metro systems and can be seen across the former eastern block but unlike many of their post-USSR deployments the Budapest sets stayed true to their identity and retained their original blue colour scheme, displayed in many faded shades. The interiors of the trains have seen many variations; some vehicles still retaining the attractive and antiquated filament lights. While most cars wear a calming mint-green there are also cars with white or wood effect interiors, such is the longevity and variety of the stock.

 

Klinikák station with the old train displays, counting down to the next departure. The striking red columns make this stop difficult to miss.

One of the more imposing stations, in my view at least is Nagyvárad tér where the station consists of a double height atrium. The trains run along either side of a large concourse in the centre. On the mezzanine level walkways exist above where the tracks lie and further escalators lead up to street level. Historic pictures of the metro attempt to give some purpose to this space which seems to offer little else other than a place to sit facing the wall. Bright plastic seats are a feature of this urban underworld with various designs adapted to suit the individual decor of its stations.

My photography session at Nagyvárad tér draws to a close as the staff member in blue is about to tell me that photography is not permitted. Fortunately the memories of this space are already recorded on my camera.

Long absent from the London Underground following the tragic fire of 1987 at Kings Cross, wooden escalators still have a charm and can be found at many locations around the Budapest Metro. Passengers descend the clunking steps to the platforms at Ferenciek tere.

Primary colours and plastic benches at Klinikák station as another metro draws to a halt.

Closing doors and mirrored columns - Ferenciek tere.

Nagyvárad tér sees another blue train arrive, the polished metal numbers  giving the cars a sense of style. 

If these pictures have inspired you to take a better look underground on your next trip to Budapest then I am sorry to say that you are too late. As early as 2006 the Budapest city Mayor was warned that M3 was in dire need of investment to maintain its service- it took just over another decade for any investment to filter through. By 2016 a contract had been signed for refurbishment of the rolling stock (the price of brand new metro trains, as had been provided for M2 was not able to be justified) by the original manufacturer, Metrovagonmash. The rolling stock was to be extensively upgraded with new cabs, new electrical equipment, interiors and of course a re-paint. The first of the white refurbished sets returned in March 2017 and by the time of my visit the few 'new' trains were merely an inconvenience to dodge for photographs.

Fluorescent reflections (and a pigeon), for there is no natural light in the depths of Határ út station. 

Worse was to come for affectionados of the brutalist architecture of the system- during 2017 the first contracts were signed for the total refurbishment of the stations and upgrading of the line. The new look is bright and modern and will be fully accessible by the time that the final stations are completed in 2021. The major upgrade was undoubtedly long overdue and has caused considerable strain for the users of M3 with large sections of the route as well as sets of stations closed for prolonged periods for the upgrade work to continue. The investment will have dragged M3 into the modern era and provided Budapest with a mass transit line fit for the twenty first century. 

Many angles at Határ út as another metro arrives. This is the last underground station before the line emerges into the daylight to terminate at Kőbánya-Kispest. Undoubtedly the refurbished stations will be far brighter.

Riding the escalators at Deák Ferenc tér - the Budapest metro features particularly deep lines, built during the cold war and able to double up as shelters - thankfully carrying passengers has remained their only use.