RENFE CP Spain and Portugal Trip Report 13-17th May 2023

1565 has just passed through Pinhal Novo with a train of loaded steel coils for the works at Siderurgia Nacional. 16/05/23

Introduction:

1903 on the final approach to the unloading terminal at
Praias Sado with the mineral train from Neves Corvo. 16/05/23

We had been considering for some time that we really needed to head to northern Spain to photograph the Pajaras ramp before services are finally diverted into the new base tunnel, expected, potentially, to maybe open this year. Unfortunately our timing was poor as we received information (Thanks Phil) only a day before flying that the route was going to be blocked for our entire five day visit and we would therefore see no trains!

Consideration was given to cutting our losses and cancelling the trip completely, but having not really been to Spain for trains and with various non-refundable elements already booked including the time off work the decision was to fly out to Madrid as booked and then work out what to do next…

 

Saturday 13^th May

ALSA's class 321 ALCO fires up at Principe Pio. 14/05/23

Straight from a night shift to Gatwick, fortunately the strike service still providing the journey I needed. Flying with Iberia Express I landed in the impressive terminal 4, and then had a little while to wait for Rob’s flight to land, if only I could find it on the arrivals boards! Eventually I worked out that Ryanair fly into a different terminal. Rendevouz completed we made our way by Metro to Chamartin where we were staying in ‘The One’ hotel above the station. The hotel was fine, but the station was quickly diagnosed as a bit of a dump and a fair way from Central Madrid. The location had been picked as it was less expensive than some other options and also put us in position for our train to Oviedo on Monday morning- which was now presumably a bus.

A RENFE class 447 unit arrives at Escorial. 14/05/23

One thing we could still cling on to was the ‘Fillipe II’ excursion train which was running both days this weekend using ALCO’s from the ALSA stable. I had a shot planned of the returning train from El Escorial but only guide timings for the evening departure. Unfortunately when the train shot past the window of our commuter service, which we had eventually purchased tickets for (the staff at Chamartin valiantly trying and failing to produce a FIP discount) it was time to call time on the day. Back to Principe Pio in case the stock was still there. It wasn’t, except for standby loco 2148 which was stabled. Cutting our losses we went for a quick walk around town and a Paella for dinner. Back at Principe Pio later the stock from the tour had returned. Eventually, having managed to buy a ticket we returned to Chamartin on the painfully slow suburban train.

334006 and 009 at Badajoz. 15/06/2023

Back at the hotel a bit of a planning session ensued before I expired. After exploring many options we ended the night with new flights booked home from Lisbon. There was no point in wasting time heading to our pre-booked flight from Asturias (Oviedo) on a bus not to see the trains. This would also allow us to sample the disjointed international journey via Badajoz. Unfortunately the 334 hauled Talgo doesn’t run on Sunday so we could not escape Madrid and its confusing ticket machines as quickly as we would perhaps have liked! As a consolation we booked on the ALCO trip for the morning.

 

Sunday 14^th May

2150 makes a fine sight as it powers towards Torrelodones with the return working of the Tren Philip II from El Escorial. 14/05/2023

Another ticket machine farse (the English button helpfully only translates a few words) and after assistance we managed to buy a ticket for the wrong train. Having spent an age on the suburban service last night today we wanted to try the metro. It wasn’t much quicker!

ALCOs at Prinicpe Peo. 14/05/23

Fortunately things picked up at Principe Pio- the train was in the platform, the sun was shining and despite booking seats in ‘coach 1’ we successfully made ourselves comfortable in the empty ‘coach 4’ which was actually at the front of the train. 2150 was our power to El Escorial, and with opening windows the 50 minute trip was very enjoyable. Tickets for the train include entrance to the Monastery (or other attractions if you pay a bit more) and a bag of jelly beans! The steward was disappointed we would not be visiting the monastery, but understood our situation ‘I am surrounded by train lovers’- her husband was the driver! To her credit she could not have been more helpful and made sure we got a look in the cab at our destination and also ensured the station staff would let us through the barriers.

My favorite of the museum exhibits, a classic Talgo loco
and coaches. 14/06/2023

Nice as El Escorial looked we had a different agenda and headed back to Madrid to explore the railway museum. This was the busiest railway museum you have ever seen- as it also doubles up some weekends as a flea market. The upshot of this was free entry, the downside was the prevalence of people everywhere and trade stalls in front of many of the locos.

After our visit we walked to Atocha to buy our FIP tickets for the following day’s IC before making another attempt at our lineside shot of the ALCO’s having now confirmed the departure time (17:20). Our half an hour at Atocha was insufficient to get to the front of the ticket queue so that would have to be a problem for later.

ALSA's 2148 is now in charge as the set performs some complex shunting outside Prinicipe Pio. 14/05/23

Arriving at our spot at Torrelodones it looked like the increasing cloud was going to get us – but thankfully it didn’t and finally we had achieved a worthwhile photograph in Spain! We chased the train back to Principe Pio now with knowledge form the driver that there would be some shunting (and there certainly was, involving both locos, though we are still not entirely sure what it achieved!). We then headed to the ticket office here for another go at buying our tickets for the morning. We had cut it a bit fine before the office closed, but emerged after much work from the staff with two FIP tickets/reservations for the morning which cost a lot less than we expected .

 
Time to retire for a cocktail and some dinner.

 

Monday 15^th May

Time to get out of Spain!

334006 and 334009 have arrived at Merida and will now run
around the train before continuing to Badajoz. 15/05/2023

I think we have just about worked out the metro ticket machines by now but it still took attempts to find the right set of platforms at Atocha for IC190 to Badajoz. I believe this train usually starts at Chamartin, but for reasons unexplained it is Atocha today. 334 006 and 009 are provided for our Talgo train, a winning class for both of us. I was surprised how quickly we left the wires behind and settled into this long diesel run. At various points the train switches between the classic line and various sections of the new high speed line which is being built largely alongside it. The difference in speed is certainly noticeable! Unfortunately the café car has no seating, but some reasonably priced refreshments are instead brought back to our coach seats.

RENFE bi-mode trainset calls at Talavera De La Reina bound for Madrid, as our train awaits the pathway forwards towards Portugal. 15/05/2023

Allan railcar 0362 forms the cross border service
from Badajoz to Entroncamento. 16/06/2023

There is a delay to our journey at Badajoz as while the Allan railcar to take us on into Portugal is in the station, it has presumably arrived late and the staff are still on their break. Once we are off around 30 minutes late we soon cross the border and sort out tickets with the CP staff on board, these don’t seem to be able to be booked through from RENFE stations. The first few miles of the line are newly electrified, which is a surprise, but this soon ends (presumably where the one day connection to Evora would diverge?). Our solitary coach is left to trundle on to Entroncamento, slowly losing a little more time and only passing one other train, the afternoon Allan going the other way.

It hasn’t been a bad journey, but it has hardly been the Sud Express, and we are glad to see Entroncamento. Tickets are purchased to Pinhal Novo, since again for some reason we can’t book through to Setubal. We have a good half hour to get a beer and enjoy watching 'Portuguese 20' 1466 engaging in a bit of shunting. 5602 is our traction south to Lisbon Oriente where we should have another loco hauled train forward.

5604 is a couple of minutes out of Pinhal Novo as it prepares to take it's IC train across the Tagus towards Lisbon. 16/05/2023

CP EMU 2275 (2240 class) approaches Palmela
with a train to Praias Sado. 16/05/23

There is a bit of a disturbance on the outskirts of Lisbon. We pass a freight train in a siding and what is this… a flash of orange! Sole surviving operational Alsthom 1905 is at its head, lights on and ready to go! Having been my biggest target on a previous trip this wasn’t easily going to be let go. A quick check of the ‘Train Status PT’ app confirmed that it would follow around 30 minutes behind our train to Oriente. A quick re-plan was needed and fortunately we could drop back onto a later loco-hauled train and still make Setubal in reasonable time. Luckily 1905 used the ‘right’ platform at Oriente and we had a pleasing sunny shot. It may not have made much noise, but what a turn up!

The last orange Alsthom, 1905 approaches Lisbon Oriente with a rail train. 15/05/2023

1565 returns to port with empty steel carriers. 16/05/2023

5610 then took us forward over the Tagus 30 minutes after we originally planned- we were already happy we had made the decision to come to Portugal. At Pinhal Novo, as if this needed confirming Takcargo MLW 1563 burst through the station unexpectedly with a train of steel coils making a right racket – driver complete with ear protection!

We stayed at the Lunar Esperanca Centro Hotel, incidentally the ‘wrong’ hotel that we tried to check in to in error on our last visit here! This turned out to be an absolute bargain with a nice room and breakfast for a fraction of what we had paid in Madrid. We had arrived a lot earlier than our previous visit and had time for a lovely fresh fish dinner before trying to book a hire car back in the room.

 

Tuesday 16^th May

One of the standout shots of the trip was Alsthom 1903 'Eva' passing Monte Novo-Palma with the loaded train from Mines Neves Corvo. 16/05/2023

1565 slogs uphill from Setubal port with loaded steel coils
for Siderurgia Nacional. 16/05/23

It turns out the hire car booking had been unsuccessful, but once the Avis office opened [late] we did manage to book our hire car and still made it out for the first Takargo MLW shuttle we were hoping to see. Given we had no plan we did well to get a sunny shot of 1563 on this. We then had time to find a good position for its return.

Aside from the MLW’s the other target had to be the Neves Corvo mine train, the last totally reliable bet for an Alstom ‘nez cassé’ 1900. Again the Train Status PT app had tipped us off as to the likely candidate and persuaded us to come south- it was Medway’s yellow 1903 ‘Eva’.

1466 is one of the station pilots at Entroncamento. 15/05/23.

I had identified a shot at Monte Novo-Palma which should work, and fortunately the train did indeed come this way on the classic route rather than taking the more direct Alacer cut-off. 1903 sounded great and we were able to just about chase the train back to the Somnicore unloader at Praias Sado, where towards the end of the shunting process the loaded train then de-railed!

While we left Medway to sort the mess out we headed back to Pinhal Novo to attempt the evening MLW shot that we never got last time. With delays to the train it again started to look dicey, but thankfully on this occasion the train did run and we got the picture we wanted, plus a couple of 5600’s which we also managed to miss on our previous visit.

1565 brings another load of steel coils from Setubal Mar to Siderurgia Nacional, pictured above from a drone. 17/05/2023

1456 shunting between the docks in Setubal. 17/05/23

Driving back to town via Praias Sado revealed that most of 1903’s train had now been put back on the rails where it should be. This was good news for the morning.

It had been an excellent day and it was time for a beer and nice meal in Setubal’s old town. Even if we saw nothing in the morning we would be happy with our successful visit to Portugal.

 

Wednesday 17^th May

In a favorite spot, 1565 bursts onto the street scene at Setubal Mar with empty steel carriers from Siderurgia Nacional. 17/05/2023.

1463 is stabled next to Alsthom 1904 within the depot at
Praias Sado. 17/05/2023

There wasn’t a lot to do today, but fill some time before heading to the airport, with some trains ideally! The day had dawned fairly overcast but it was still worth going to see and hear 1903 heading down to the mine before breakfast. After that it was a fairly relaxed schedule to catch the Penalva car circuit behind 1565 at Praca do Quebedo and then attempting a drone shot of 1563 by which time the sun had reappeared.

We finished off by catching 1456 shunting the port and then a repeat of our favourite shot at Setubal with 1563 emerging from the tunnel. A quick look at Prais Sado revealed 1904 and 1463 between duties. The final train was a Medway container service before driving to Lisbon Airport and home.

Portugal had been good to us again. Pajares would have to wait until when and if we can muster the appetite for another go.

1903 'Eva' heads outbound across the saltmarshes shortly after leaving Praias Sado with its empty train headed for the mines at Neves Corvo. 17/05/23

ONCF Morocco Trip Report 5-9 January 2017

E1316 pulls into Rabat Ville with a service to Fes on 6th January 2017. Both the locomotive, based on the SNCF BB7200 and the Corail coaches which it pulls are typically French. 06/01/2017.

Thursday 5th January-
No trains today- unless you care about the journey to Stanstead airport.
It was a leisurely fight with Ryanair to Rabat. Despite not choosing to pay for an allocated seat I was given a window right near the front of the plane. During the course of the flight both of the two people sitting in my row got up and disappeared... I did't think I smelt particularly bad!?

Having arrived at Rabat there was a bit of a faf with getting money as neither ATM at the airport liked my card (I think it was my card rather than the ATM's at fault) so my first dinar was exchanged from my sterling at one of the money exchanges- I would have to hope my card would work in the morning! Transfer to the city was by the airport bus for 20 dinar (about £1.80)- first impressions of Morocco were as a modern 'civilised' country, then we passed two lorries massively overloaded with the most hay bails I have possibly every seen!

I stayed at the Rihab Hotel which was well located and fine. At first glance very nice actually, but the bathroom turned out to be ropey and the water turned out to be luke warm at best. As it was well dark by the time I arrived dinner was at a chain chicken restaurant around the corner, all very nice but I didn't really want the football on loudly booming across the whole place. I asked for the WiFi code and the waiter smiled and said 'no'... not sure what that was all about!

Friday 6th January-

Rabat Ville with Anseldo Breda Z2M EMU's which work local
trains between Cassablanca and Kenitra (plus some to Fes).

After breakfast I headed to Rabat Ville station, about 10 minutes from the hotel. I purchased a ticket for the short leap to Rabat Agdal partly to score a loco for the 5 minute hop but also to gain access to the station. I used the automatic ticket machines which do have an English option but always seem to be out of change. Expecting hassle with photos I made my way to the end of the platform out of the way for a few snaps, about 50% of the trains here are the new-ish double deck units, the other half being electric loco hauled. It generally seemed that the lower numbers, two digit trains were units with the three digit trains being 'grand lignes' locos and stock. Shadows were difficult in the lowish winter sun so I boarded the first loco to arrive E1412, one of the new Alsthom Prima II's to Agdul. I have to say, for a modern loco I really like the Prima II, especially in ONCF's orange and grey.

My first ride on ONCF was with E1412 a very smart Alsthom Prima II.

I spent around 90 minutes at Rabat Agdul during which a further 3 loco hauled trains were seen, firstly a southbound train with old Hitachi E1262 and secondly a northbound with Alsthom 'Nez Cassis' E1314 - a very French looking train once you couple it up with a typical train of Corail coaches. Finaly I left Agdul on E1408 heading back to Rabat Ville. I really needed to ride some of the older classes but I had a few shots and had not been accosted for photography at all.

I liked the Hitachi built E1200 class much more than I expected to. These
locos definitely have some character. E1262 stats at Rabat Agdul 06/01/2017.

I spent the early afternoon wandering around Rabat, though the Medina and out to the coast. An absolutely fascinating city by all accounts and a great place to while away a few hours. It's an odd mix of everything with the medieval Medina butting up to the modern tramway (opened 2011) with its Alsthom Citadis trams!
Before I had got bored of the place it was time to head back to the hotel, pick up my bag and head to the station for my train onward to to Fes. I had bought my tickets at the station earlier, this time from the counter as I wanted to break my journey in Kenitra in order to score another loco. This was no problem and with a bit of French and English I had my tickets no problem. I was told that despite having a train number printed on the ticket I could take any train that day with my 2nd class fare.





The train rolled in with E1316- Brilliant- not another modern Prima! The train was very busy but I did find a seat with a window in an open coach. Not everyone was so lucky. Kenitra turned out to be a building site but I didn't have too long here. Shortly after my arrival E1411 pulled in. Soon there was a flurry of activity around the front of the loco so I headed down to see what was going on- At some point earlier on its run it had clearly hit something large enough to smash and shatter the windscreen. No problem though- some sticky back plastic was quickly found and a makeshift repair made. Now I couldn't see a driver back home taking that forward in service, but off it went! My chariot forward pulled in as E1404 where I found a nice seat in a compartment for the journey on to Fes. The area around Rabat/Kenitra is seeing heavy investment as it will take the TGV's off the high speed line when it opens- part of this upgrade involves fencing in the entire railway with large concrete 'upside down T' sections which will make any lineside photography very ugly- and also doesn't entirely seem to keep the locals out as I saw several men vaulting over them. The line is rather flat and boring until reaching somewhere near Sidi Kacem where the landscape becomes more mountainous, and it god dark.

I don't think this would continue in service in the UK somehow! E1411
receives attention to its windscreen while it is paused at Kenitra.

On arrival at Fes there was the reassuring sound of a diesel heading east in another platform- I wandered over for a look and hopefully a photo, though the light was awful. I was quickly ushered away. The station staff clearly didn't want me anywhere near that diesel.
Gare du Fes is located in the new town, so I would need to make my way to the Medina for my hotel. Out of instinct I told all the taxi hawkers to go away before realising that what I actually needed was a taxi. I paid 40 dinah to reach the beautiful Riad Ibn Khaldoun, where upon arrival I discovered a taxi should have cost me 15-20 dinah. I would highly recommend this Riad to stay in- my room was stunning and it had heating (which is not a given for Morocco in winter). It was dark now so I went for a walk around the local area for the medina before finding somewhere for dinner. I rather suspect I was put upstairs in the 'foreigners room' for dinner as non-Moroccan parties were scattered sparsely around tables generally eating spaghetti bolognase. The restaurant was cold and sadly lacked atmosphere- but I can't complain at my giant bowl of cous-cous with lamb and with hindsight I don't think I paid too far over the odds for it at 100 dinah.
In an unusual change for these trips I was in bed at a reasonable hour.

Saturday 7th January

The 'wrong' end of DH363 is seen as it prepares to shunt a coach off of the
stock which has arrived at Fes to form the 10:45 to Beni Nsar Port. 07/01/2017.

Breakfast was traditional Moroccan breads and things, but nice enough. Now if the exquisite room wasn't the best thing about this Riad then the view across the Medina had to be- absolutely stunning, and what a city Fes is! Anyway... on to the trains. I found a taxi no problem for 20 dinar back to the station and purchased my ticket to D'Oued Amlil on the line towards Ouidja. Train services are very limited with only 3-4 per day and this seemed to be the best place for a run of about 2 hours out and back. Having left plenty of time, as I don't trust taxis, I had about an hour on the station. I was watched quite closely but nobody gave me any grief until 5 minutes before my train departed at 10:45 for Beni Nsar Port. Two trains had departed west in this time with E1262 and E1416. Soon after DH363 arrived with stock for another westbound departure (which I think left with an E1300). Shortly after newer DH411 appeared light engine, DH364 also departed west with a freight, but a photo was not possible as the yard is behind a fence. Now which loco would work my train (which arrived from Casablanca with E1258?). DH363 shunted off a coach, and then DH411 backed on, a shame- I wanted the old one!

DH430, one of the newer batch of locos in the revised ONCF colours departs from Gare D'Oued Amlil for Fes.

Just time for a quick photo of DH363 as we pause at Gare Ain Sbit. 

It was a good run though we lost a little time for no apparent reason. I had a comfy seat in a Corail compartment again. On arrival at D'Oued Amlil there should have been a -2 onto a train back to Fes. I had figured as we were on single track it might make despite our 5 minute delay and it did. It was however never the plan to take it, especially as it had another of the newer locos, DH430. I did have time for a nice picture of it leaving though. Around an hour behind this train was another, one of very few occasions where you don't get stranded for hours. This gave me time to buy my return ticket, get some lunch (BBQ meat and bread- straight off the carcass for 50 dinar, probably a hugely inflated tourist price). I had vaguely hoped that a nice eastbound freight might turn up during my lay over. Of course it didn't, but I did find a nice spot to photograph my train arriving and then to leg it to the station to jump on. This worked very well and one of the older locos DH373 appeared for the full sun shot. I had an excellent run back with the loco and the remains of my lunch in a lovely old red-faux leather ex SNCF compartment. I had also figured by this point that the Corail doors would open while on the move... that was the answer to hearing the loco within the air-con's then! There was even time for a short photo stop at Gare Ain Sbit despite slightly late running. The driver seemed to get out of the loco here so I asked the guard how long we had 'about 1 minute' - that'll do! I sneaked a couple of photos of the train on arrival at Fes but didn't want to outstay my welcome having already been told, very nicely, that I wasn't allowed to take photos.

I should have come years ago if I really wanted to see the DF
class at work in Morocco- With an awful shadow across the
front DF116 (ex SNCF CC72018) stands in the yard at Fes still
wearing it's former Fret SNCF livery. 07/01/2017.

Then I saw it... The holy grail of Moroccan trains... there was a DF in the yard. It was instantly recognisable as one of the ex-French CC72000's as it was still in SNCF Fret colours- now how on earth was I going to get a picture? The yard is reasonably well fenced and walking along the tracks was not going to work here. Eventually I found an access point through the black migrant camp (they were rather surprised to see me walking through!). Expecting to get kicked out of the yard I waited for the opportune moment to get my photo, letting a triple headed freight (E1100 + E1300 + E1200) get away in the process. I got my photo- with a massive shadow across it and was then greeted by a member of railway staff... Somehow we ended up having a nice chat and having passed him a photo of an SNCF CC72100 on the Belfort line I left with a few more photos and a friendly wave from him and his colleagues- that worked ok then! DM614 was also in the yard (with a shadow across it).

Wandering the Medina in Fes in search of dinner.

The diversion to DF 116 had cost me valuable time and I now had a lot less time to be a tourist around Fes. I got another 20 dinar taxi back to town and knew that my first port of call after dumping my bag was the tannery. It was a really fascinating place and I'm sure I needed the belt (100 dinar) and rug (350 dinar) that I was coaxed into buying! On a positive however I didn't get lost, or bugged by touts and actually found that having spent next to all of my money wandering the Medina was much more fun- I wasn't going to be forced into buying anything I didn't need because I couldn't! I ended the evening in one of the food alleys which was also a lot less filled with tourists. I made friends with a few stallholders while I stood drinking a glass of freshly squeezed pomegranate juice. For dinner it was street food- a stall I had seen with a queue the night befor. Here I definitely didn't get ripped off- I had seen the person in front of me pay his 10 dinar and clarified that my sandwich containing some sort of fried potato, an egg and some red stuff would cost the same. As I was turning to leave the stallholder called out to me... I hadn't picked up my change! Well there you are- dinner for 6 dinar (about 50p)!
It was an early night again and after some photographs of the city skyline by night it was time to bed down.

A view worth waking up for- the rooftops of Fes

Sunday 8th January

I got my first ride behind a Hitachi E1200 leaving Fes. As it
happens this was not it, but it would be my second as it would
work Tangier the train which followed behind my departure.

I had really enjoyed my time in Fes, but it was time to move on such was my whirlwind schedule. Today I had to end up in Tangier and had planned a schedule involving a couple of trains to score a few more locos, and maybe find some DF's in yards. My first train with E1260 took me to Meknes on the 09:40 departure to Casa Voyages. I had paid for a 1st class ticket for this part of the journey as it was cheap enough I could and would avoid any issue if the train was particularly busy. I found a nice compartment to myself and went to try the window to see if it was locked. It wasn't however as I went to open it I discovered another problem. It didn't stop at the angle it usually would and very soon was open to 270 degrees and a moment later was attached only to my hand and not the coach! I'd better put that back quickly... unfortunately it didn't really fit. Maybe it was like that before I thought as I watched it wobble in the frame. After a short while of unease I moved away from the middle seat convinced that it would blow in at the first tunnel. I didn't need to wait that long as 30 seconds after moving a train passed and that was enough- Bang! and the window was on the floor where I had just been sitting. I thought it prudent to let somebody on the train know, and the trolley attendant had just passed. He didn't seem interested at first to my 'problem finetra' but when he walked back past my compartment the scene was greeted with an 'Ooh la la!' so maybe it was an issue afterall! By the time the train had reached Meknes the travelling fitter was attending and I had been very apologetically moved to another compartment! At Meknes a E1300 was departing with a mixed freight as I arrived and there was an ONCF DF in the yard but it was totally inaccessible, especially given that the Tangier train (09:55 ex Fes) was shortly behind, the earlier train having left nearly 15 minutes late for no apparent reason. The second train had been observed with an E1400 the previous day but it was nice to see another oldie in the form of E1254 in charge.

Given it was one of my better photos of the trip it is probably no wonder that I didn't take up the option to delete this photo! E1302 waits with a southbound at Sidi Kacem with a train mostly formed of old liveried Corail coaching stock. This was formerly the point where electric locos gave way to diesels heading north to Tangier. Since electrification in 2011 trains have continued north to Tangier with electric traction. 08/01/2017.

Next stop was Sidi Kacem where our train was scheduled to lay over for around 30 minutes, quite significantly reduced because of our delay. I can only assume the timetable has not been re-cast since locos used to be exchanged here for the diesel run to Tanger before the wires were put up? In the other platform was a very well lit E1302 heading southbound. I popped over for a picture but before it departed was ordered not to take photos by the station staff. The driver didn't look best pleased either (all others had been super friendly) and I was advised that I 'should delete the picture'. As this was only advice and not an order I obviously didn't (it's probably my best shot of an E1300 as well)- but I did retreat back to my own train without taking any more!
I had a plan to change again at Mechraa Belksiri as there was another Tangier service 90 minutes behind mine (and I still wanted another E1300)- I had also worked out that there should be two southbound trains passing which would be good for the sun. I eventually found a spot which was nothing more than 'ok' for the first of these trains which eventually turned up about 35 late with E1256. The second I had not seen before my cut off to head back to the station for my own train- It was the right decision to give up on it as it was 45 late, and had an E1400 at the helm. It passed the station as I was boarding my own train north, with E1417. For the sake of 1 mediocre photo and another E1400 I'm not sure the 90 minute stint had been worth it!

The weather had clouded over by the time that E1417 arrived
at Tangier Ville. Much construction is taking place here. 

Arrival into Tangier Ville was shortly before nightfall and revealed another DF for sight with DF 120 in the yard opposite the stored TGV's. There is a lot of evidence of high speed line construction in this area but also much evidence that it is a way off yet. While the latest opening date of 2018 isn't impossible I'm not convinced it will happen myself. I counted 6 complete TGV Duplex sets in the new depot, some of which have now been there since 2015. It cannot be denied that the High Speed line will reduce journey times and thrust the rails to the forefront of Morocco's economy but like many I do question whether it is the best use of money, the project seeming slightly out of place with much of the character of the country.
Tangier Ville station is another building site, with the station building some 100m away from the tracks connected by a temporary shelter. Once TGV services start running this will be the grand northern terminus. It is a pleasant 30 minute walk to the old town, mostly along the sea front (another construction site) with views of the Spanish mountains across the Straight of Gibralter.

Some of the TGV's at the new depot at Tangier have already been standing idle for over 2 years. The High Speed line is currently expected to open in 2018. - Track has not yet reached Tangier. 08/07/2017.

I took a wrong turning looking for my hotel the basic, but adequate (and cold) Hotel Mamora. A local stopped me trying to give me cards to hotels and as I was shoeing him away I realised one was the very one I was looking for! He got an adequate tip but wanted me more for showing me the way.
Not having any clue where to go for dinner I consulted trip advisor and ended up with a very nice meal which while the most expensive of my trip (130 dinar for two courses) I didn't feel I'd been overcharged for. I spent another hour or so wandering the Medina in Tangier and again not getting too lost before heading back to the hotel.
I would need a taxi back to the station in the morning as I had already purchased my tickets for the 07:15 train to Tangier Port Med. The hotel was happy to book this for me for 100 dinar- I sincerely hope the guy at the desk had got confused as it should only cost 15! I did try to point this out and eventually decided to try my luck hailing my own cab in the morning.

Monday 9th January

Finally- a DF in ONCF colours- DF105 and E1351 show off both the French 'Nez Cassis' classes in use in Morocco. 

I had to skip breakfast but had brought some provisions the night before. Getting a taxi for 15 dinar from the road was no problem and I was at Tangier Ville in plenty of time for my train. As ever I showed my ticket to gain access to the platform and was asked if I wanted to know the platform number in French or English. It really didn't matter to me and turned out to be irrelevant anyway as platform 4 which I was directed to was full of the 07:25 train to Casa Voyages. On platform 2 was a more likely candidate, a loco, one Corail and generator coach which the crew confirmed was the 07:15 to Tangier Port Med. I had read that this train was very lightly loaded and while the passenger numbers must have been in double figures I did keep a compartment to myself for the whole of the 1 hour scenic ride behind E1310. Having heard of other enthusiasts luck with DF's on the branch I kept my eyes peeled (and the coach door open) every time we approached a yard. I was rewarded on the final approach to the port with DF 105 stabled in a yard and finally a photo of DF 120 (ex CC72003 and again in SNCF Fret livery) pulling a train out of the car loading terminal in the docks themselves.

DF120 hauls an empty car train out of Tangier Port Med.

If you are only interested in the trains you can stop reading at this point, however my journey was far from over.

I hadn't pre-booked a ferry, in fact I was originally planning to take the FRS fast cat from the old port in Tangier town to Tarifa in Spain, but then I did discover the one daily train to Tanger Port Med which would put me on a boat straight to Algeciras. Unfortunately there was a long gap between my 08:15 arrival at the port and the next boat. One of the company rep's told passengers that their company would run the next boat at 10/10:30 (so 10:30 then). I checked and another boat was due to leave at 10, but as was pointed out to us, it was still out at sea on its inward voyage. To be fair to the guy his boat wasn't the first to leave when it did at 11:00, but the other boat was only 10 mins in front and at 23 euros I didn't feel too hard done by. It was however abundantly clear that I wasn't going to get a photo of the train departing Algeceras at 11:45 as I had hoped. My boat the Nova Star was well appointed and had a nice outdoor area where I spent the whole crossing taking in the fading view of Africa and passing Gibraltar before we turned left into Algeceras.

Leaving Morocco from Tangier Port Med by boat.

Algeceras itself is hardly an idyllic Spanish town from what I saw but does boast a large dock complex. The station is about a 10 minute walk inland from the ferry terminal and sees several trains each day, the long distance ones being diesel loco hauled Talgo sets. I had long missed the 11:45 as now expected (also loosing an hour to the time change) but wasn't far off the 15:03 departure! I found a spot to view this and hoped that it would be the loco and stock in the station and not the unit with it's lights on. I had almost given up on the loco when 3 minutes before departure the level crossing went down and then to my almost shock the driver got in the loco, lights on, engine on and off it went! 334018 didn't sound bad either!

The 15:03 Altaria Talgo service from Algeciras to Madrid gets underway behind 334018. 09/07/2017.

Now it was time for me to rescue the heavily delayed itinerary for my day- heading across from the station to the bus depot to take the M-120 to La Lunea for Gibralta. It's more of a coach than a bus and costs 2.45 euro taking just under 45 minutes. Once at the end of the route it is a simple walk through the e-passport gates to get back into Britain- sort of! Gibraltar is a funny place, no less so from the fact that you must walk across an active runway to reach the town! I didn't initially find the main street having ended up in a residential area but once I did it was certainly time to find a pub and get a cider. It's very strange seeing common British brands among the local population, the majority of whom speak Spanish. Armed with a cookie from M&S it was back across the runway to make my flight back to Luton with Monarch.

Walking across the runway with the Rock of Gibralta looking on.

The flight was pretty full and due to being one of the last to board I had to take my turn at being one of the 'normals' faffing trying to get their small case into the overhead bin. Again I had been allocated a nice window seat without the £7 charge, though did have to suffer a couple next to me who clearly couldn't manage to do anything solo... having fed his girlfriend he even started reading her a story- I mean really!?
Our final drama was on the tarmac at Luton where one passenger accused another of stealing his wallet, a situation handled phenomenally badly by both parties. Welcome back to Luton folks!
As is often the case I then had the worst journey of the entire trip getting back to Waterloo- I hadn't realised there was a tube strike when I booked the flight!

Conclusions-

Gare du Fes is typical of modern ONCF stations build in the
typical Moroccan style. Stations are clean and well appointed.

I had wanted to visit Morocco for a very long time but somehow it had never quite made it to the top of my list. Of course I now wish it had while the DF's were still working passenger.
That aside the country is still well worth a visit for it's trains and I'm sure I'll go back. The locos which do run are very pleasing and travelling on Corails is pleasant wherever you are in the world. Travel is very cheap as well, I used point to point tickets totaling 353 dinar (about £30) including one 1st class journey. Unfortunately very little freight was seen, and I'd be interested to hear from readers of their experiences- I'd like to catch some, was I just unlucky or in the wrong areas for much of the time (it was also a weekend)? Photography was not as big an issue as it could have been, though seemed to be totally hit and miss with some locations being find and others not. Either way nowhere felt like you would get away with loitering on the station for more than a couple of hours.
Aside from the trains Morocco is a fascinating and beautiful country full of friendly people and I highly recommend a visit.

DH373 approaches Gare D'Oued Amlil with the 08:40 Beni Nsar Port to Casa Voyageurs on 7th January 2017.

The end of Elipsos?

At 10pm on a Friday night passengers board the
Trenhotel at Paris Austerlitz ready for the
comfortable overnight journey to Barcelona.

The popular bar on board the Trenhotel

There is great news for passengers traveling between France and Spain from the 15th December 2013 timetable change- Direct high-speed services will, after many delays, link the two countries. The new TGV and AVE services will provide the fastest connection ever between cities in France and Spain.
The less good news is the almost certain curtailment of the Elipsos Trenhotel.

Quality dining is available aboard the Trenhotel

Set up in 2001 Elipsos is a joint venture between SNCF and RENFE to run overnight sleeper services
between their networks, and also formerly into Switzerland and Italy. The Trenhotel may not provide the fastest journey between Paris and Barcelona/Madrid but it does provide a very time efficient way of travelling. No longer will you be able to board the train in Paris as late as 10pm with an arrival in Barcelona the following morning before 9:45am having enjoyed a good nights sleep with an evening meal and breakfast served to you at a table. The earliest arrival possible in Barcelona by way of the new TGV service is is not until almost 2pm- and that requires boarding a train in Paris at around 7am!

What is disappointing about the withdrawal of the Elipsos service is that these trains are popular and busy. The fact that they cater for a totally different market to the the TGV has seemingly been totally overlooked by the SNCF and RENFE. The TGV will hopefully gain passengers from airlines, but the service Trenhotel service should remain as an alternative for time conscious passengers- particularly those making a longer journey by rail. It is a shame that these two services cannot both be retained to compliment each other.

From December 2013 the overnight Trenhotel from Paris will no longer arrive into Barcelona and Madrid.
The train is pictured here a few months before the end of its service at Barcelona Estacio de Francia.

Update Feb 2014: Since this post the Elipsos Trenhotel has been withdrawn leaving no direct overnight connections between France and Spain. It is still possible to travel largely overnight on these routes by taking 'Intercities du Nuit' trains within France and connecting to local services at the Spanish border. The excellent Seat 61 website contains details of how to make this journey.