ONCF Morocco Trip Report 16-21st May 2026

DH410 of the ONCF powers Al Atlas train 101 from Casablanca to Beni Nasr along the shores of the Idris I dam as it approaches Matmata. 17/05/2026.

Saturday 16^th May

A fairly early start to get to Stanstead for our Ryanair flight to Fez 09:15. This was non-eventful and landed a little early. Getting through passport control was a breeze, and with hand luggage only we found ourselves stamped into Morocco around 30 minutes before our hire car booking!

DH420 skirts the Idris I reservoir working from
Oijda to Fez. 16/05/2026

Looking at the cloudy weather we quickly realised we would need all the time we had to photograph the diesels here, so diverted the car drop off to Rabat Airport allowing us a later return on Monday. It was quickly realised that in my haste of packing the previous night I had left my driving licence at home- so that was me out as an additional driver and condemned to giving direction from the back seat! Our first destination was straight to the Fez ‘Land Port’ on the west of the city, for there were no diesels to see for a little bit. This diversion was on the off-chance that one of the Alstom DF’s might be in the yard, which I believe they work trip freights to from the main yard at Fez. It wasn’t. And with seemingly no way to get anywhere near the main yard at Fez there was a little time to get supplies and cash before driving east to intercept the afternoon diesel arrivals.

It was unfortunate that being May and in a part of the world which sees a lot of sunshine, the forecast for our thee days in Fez was somewhat varied- and we had arrived to blanket of high cloud. This meant that the first two pictures of the afternoon were unfortunately lost- but thing did pick up for the 16:45 Fez – Oujda which was photographed on the useful ‘horse shoe’ west of Sidi Harazem, (which usefully turns the eastbound departures back into the sun during the afternoon), with DH367, pleasingly one of the older locos.

DH373 is at the head of the 18:20 Fez - Taza under dramatic skies. 16/05/2026

Luck continued as we headed up towards the Idris I dam where DH420 was captured on the 13:30 Oujda – Fez, before finishing the day with DH373, another oldie, on the last train our of Fes, the fairly recently reinstated 18:20 to Taza which was captured in some nice glinty evening light between the clouds.

Or at least we thought that was it, while stopped near the horseshoe to admire the sunset, a freight was spotted beneath us- resulting in a sudden chase back up the line to a suitable position- with some nice light behind it, DH414 was captured on a train of hoppers and steel flats heading east, and delaying our dinner in Fes somewhat!

After the last passenger train has past, DH414 heads east with a freight. 16/05/2026.

The famous tannery in Fez medina.

We drove back and checked into our hotel, the Riad Damia Suite, on the edge of the old city. While parking should have been available we were instantly directed by locals into a garage for 50Dh per night. The Riad was lovely, with a triple room on the ground floor. Now a little late it was time to head straight into the Medina for some dinner- tagine cous cous, very nice. Despite plans for a beer, we were pretty tired so it was straight to bed- especially since there was an early train in the morning!

In the end it had been a pretty decent first afternoon- we had seen two of the older DH350/370’s and a freight hopefully positive for the next few days photography!

Sunday 17^th May-

It was up not long after sunrise to drive 30 minutes out of the city for the first train the 06:20 from Taza since the forecast was much better for the morning. As suspected this was DH373 again, this time long nose leading as there is no run-around facility at Taza.
This shot achieved, despite a very hazy background it was back to Fez for a pleasant and leisurely breakfast at the riad.

In hazy morning conditions, DH373 heads the 06:20 Taza - Fez running long nose first. 17/05/2026

There isn’t a lot of action on the diesel lines in the morning aside from the early commuter turn from Taza, with no daylight departures until 10:30 and the first arrival not until 13:35- so it is nice to have a rare relaxing start. Shortly after 10 however it was time to head out in the car again, back to the reservoir for a shot I was very anxious to achieve on one of the bridges- the view accentuated by a very full lake, contrary to many of the dry pictures I had seen, following a very wet spring season.
DH410 obliged here, and we were all very pleased with the shot on the 10:30 Fez – Beni Nasr.

DH405 powers past Chebabat bound for Oujda 
on train 103. 18/05/2026

There are now a few trains in quick succession, and the following 11:20 Fez – Oujda with DH402 was captured a short distance away over wheat fields again overlooking the lake. We found another spot for the 07:50 Oujda – Fes, after which we adjourned for lunch- the sun was very high now and there weren’t really any locations that worked of for it ‘on the nose’ now heading out of Fez. We had seen a nice looking Meat Grill earlier in the small town of Oulad Ayad, which after a few language barrier differences (apparently the English speak Spanish) proved to be very delicious!

A leisurely lunch over with, it was time to drive back to yesterdays first shot for another go at the 09:25 Beni Nasr – Fes on one of the viaducts near Sidi Harazem. DH427 appeared today, and like yesterday was long nose forwards, and also like yesterday, in poor light.

A wide view captures DH402 powering the 11:20 Fez - Oujda through wheatfields near to the Idris 1 dam. 17/05/2026

Lunch doesn't get much fresher than this lovely
BBQ meat.

Since the afternoon forecast wasn’t conductive to sunny photography, and we do actually quite like a train ride too, the afternoon was spent doing a move from Fes to Matamata and back. The risk of such moves is that with the single line, and not all trains calling at each station, you don’t have much of an option of a ‘safe plus’, not near to Fez in the afternoon anyway.  After much deliberation we decided that the 16:45 Fez – Oujda ought to manage its +3 at Matamata… and if it didn’t we were sure we could find a taxi or something, since there were no more Fez bound trains! Anyway, this was the only move available now if we wanted to go more than the 20 minutes to Sidi Harazem!

DH429 passes Touabaa working the 07:50 Oujda - Fez. 17/05/2026

Tickets were easily purchased from the machines at Fez- and they were happy to reserve us seats both ways on our +3 move. There was even still time for a (rather expensive) ice cream before departure. DH429 got us underway, but by Sidi Harazem we were already a few minutes down after passing a train going the other way. We could have chickened out for a +1h42… but what would be the fun in that!? Instead we used took the sensible option when the guard came through to show our return tickets and try to explain the move… ‘would it make?’ By Matamata it was now about a -3 and DH420 was already waiting in the loop- but true to the guards gesturing, we were sent to the station staff who dispatched out train first, and then made sure that we got onto our return. Phew- job done!

The attractive old city of Fez.

With no sign of a freight ready to head east tonight, it was a more sensible hour to head into Fez for dinner. Though after a diversion to see the tannery, consider buying Fez’ and for me to pick up some slippers, out dinner ended up being some street food near to the restaurants- it was delicious and bought us time to celebrate with a beer. Finding one wasn’t difficult, but getting the local ‘Casablanaca’ was more so. Plenty of establishments claimed to have it, only on further grilling to just have Heinken. Eventually we did track down some genuine ‘Casablanca’ and even treated ourselves to a second bottle- to then be told almost immediately that the bar was closing and we now had to drink up. Ah well…

Monday 18th May-

One of my favourites of the trip- especially with the flowers. DH417 is in charge of the 10:30 Fez - Beni Nasr as it powers over the viaduct at Bouhlou. You wouldn't know that the motorway is just meters away from this idyllic scene behind us! 18/05/2026

Another leisurely start (our last), since nobody fancied getting up for the 06:20 Taza today. We knew the loco was cab leading, but also that there were no other locations and it was cloudy anyway. Not leaving the city until around 10:00, we soon abandoned the nearby shots with the cityscape as the Fez area was clearly still cloudy, and the weather further east showed promise. It was better therefore to chase the weather and make sure we were in position at Bouhlou for the viaduct shot rather than miss mucking it up. This worked a treat, with DH417 at the head of the 10:30 Fez – Beni Nasr and we were all (mostly) very pleased with the picture among the spring flowers.

The next couple of trains were photographed in this area before we again adjourned out of the high midday sun for lunch at our now favourite meat grill- the staff were quite surprised to see the 3 ‘Spanish’ Englishmen again!

DH402 blasts out of the tunnel as it heads uphill towards
Ain Sbit working the 16:45 Fez - Oujda. 18/05/2026

With a bit of a gap now until the afternoon flurry of trains we went to check out some locations for later- in doing so noticing that the ballast hoppers which had been parked up at Sidi Harazem were being loaded from the car park- was there going to be some freight action? We popped into the station to ask, and fortunately the ‘Chief du Gare’ spoke enough English to give us enough of an idea of what was going on- very helpfully letting us know that those wagons weren’t going anywhere, but there should be an eastbound freight that *should* have left Fez about 14:00… but due to a problem hadn’t. It might leave ‘around 18:00’. That sounds very much like the path we had seen the freight in two days ago… by which point really we should be on the road! The chap was very friendly and was pleased to show us some of his other railway photographer friends on Facebook- a few names familiar from the Flickr world!

The 13:30 Oujda - Fez (continuing to Casablanca) is the last inbound train of the evening and is captured near Sidi Harazem with DH429 providing the power. 18/05/2026

Wrapping up the Fez diesels in the best way is DH414
climbing uphill with a freight in the last light between
Sidi Harazem and Ain Sbit. 18/05/2026

While we could have chatted longer, we couldn’t afford to miss our third attempt at the viaduct shot- finally today achieving it in the light we wanted with DH410 on the 09:25 Beni Nasr – Fez. I can only presume there is no run-round at Ben Nasr, hence this train  ending up long nose leading on every occasion we had seen it. Back on the road we wanted to check out the tunnel on the ‘horseshoe’ where the light would be right for the 16:45 Fez – Oujda if there was a shot. Not being put off by small dirt tracks we found our position and caught DH402 for a pleasing shot. A few more shots were taken in the evening light of the last passenger trains, before we adopted our shot for the anticipated freight- of course we would have to stay for it before the long drive to Rabat!

Knowing that the train had come very much in the last light two days ago, our theoretic cut-off was the loss of the light… And really we still had very little idea if the train was going to come now at all- fortunately it did. DH414 closing the chapter on Fez diesels nicely.

Tonight’s dinner was biscuits and crisps on the drive, and by the time we reached the hotel in Rabat any thoughts of seeing the city were long past. We had an early train in the morning!

Tuesday 19^th May-

Alstom Prima II E1477 has deposited us at 
Marrakech after our run from Rabat. 19/05/2026

This morning had arguably become a bit of a pointless transit trip- but it got us all a nice ONCF train ride from Rabat to Marrakech behind E1477. After arrival there was a bit of action to photograph with shunter DI513 before heading straight to the airport in another taxi for our next hire car! Now on the road we would largely trace our steps back to Ben Guerir to get onto the Safi line. Here the targets were the phosphate trains which still run with Hitachi E1100’s several times a day. We didn’t have long to catch one, so it was good news when we pulled into the station at Elaria that the staff were able to tell us that one was coming in the right direction in about 40 minutes. Working out that this would cross the passenger at Youssoufia we could try to find a position to capture both.

E1254 passes the arable fields near Soualem working the 16:05 Safi - Benguerir. 19/05/2026

An 'arty' hire car shot with the phosphate train!

We hoped that heading to the area around Soualem would find us some desert landscapes, but this time of year it was still just dry arable land. E1254 was captured on the 16:05 Safi – Benguerir, confirming these veterans still worked on the line, and shortly afterwards the main event followed with E1117 on its westbound Phosphate train. A chase valiant chase was given, but the lack of roads in the area meant that we only just about caught up with the train again.

E1117 does the business with a westbound phosphate train heading for the port of Safi and pictured in the Soulem area. 19/05/2026

After a wild chase E1117 is caught again at Bidane as it 
accelerates away from the station loop. 19/05/2026

No other activity was observed on this sleepy line until the return passenger, 19:23 Benguerir – Safi which provided disappointment in two ways- the sun almost completely giving way to haze around 5 minutes ahead of the train passing, and also the sight of Prima E1412 on the train. Clearly the Hitachi had been swapped, and that would scupper our morning shot too. Tonight we stayed at the Valley Boutique Hotel in Safi- which was lovely, except for the room not having enough beds! Dinner was in town, where every restaurant had the football on, and our chosen one couldn’t provide their ‘Moroccan’ dishes. 

Wednesday 20^th May-

DH357 is caught alongside the Atlantic ocean as it works a long train from the port of Safi to the industrial works to the south of the town. 20/05/2026

DH357 crawls through the docks at Safi- a fortuitous and quick
picture on my phone before we were stopped! 20/05/2026

In the original plan, today should have been a nice easy day on the Safi line before ending in Marrakech- but in the later stages of planning we picked up that Phosphate trains also run on the line to Khourigba, and can produce E1300’s… so this obviously also now had to be covered. The hotel in Marrakech cancelled and an apartment in Settat booked instead.

It was also now getting rather warm… midday temperatures peaking in the low 40’s, so the sensible plan was to spend the morning around Safi, drive during the middle of the day for an afternoon arrival in Settat, catching the best of the light.
We only knew 99% that the morning train out of Safi would be Prima E1412 again, so it was worth a punt. Or was it- the sun hadn’t cleared the haze when the train passed the outskirts of Safi, and was indeed E1412 again.

Another look at E1117 at Bidane on its westbound phosphate train. 19/05/2026

Our other target in this area was the green DK diesels which can work trains between the docks and the works in the city. A look in at the station revealed not a DK, but DH357 set up on a train looking ready to go ‘soon’. We sneaked a quick picture before we could be chucked out of the area, an action which was clearly in progress!
Setting up outside the factory area, we now just had to wait and hope that the DH would indeed delivery it’s train, and ideally before 09:20 so we could still make it back to the hotel for breakfast!

DK556 shunts within the phosphate terminal at Safi. This nice 
clear view is the result of considerable work to remove overhead
wires from the front of the picture in Photoshop! 20/05/2026

Just before 09:15 a horn was heard, and we were somewhat surprised to see the train moving much more quickly than anticipated- perhaps not resulting in all of the party quite getting the shots we had in mind! Anyway- it was a diesel shot and we could get back to the hotel for what turned out to be a very nice breakfast.

We had spotted a DK shunting next to the ‘No Photography’ sign at the Phosphate terminal earlier, so this became a target for after breakfast. First though, we just happened to spot a freight train slowly ambling along the line to the docks- it was DH357 again, now heading north. Bundling the car into a parking space and rushing through the security check at the port entrance, we just about managed to find a position to capture the train entering the port complex. The timing probably couldn’t have been better as the authorities didn’t have time to tell us not to take pictures until the train had passed! Back now to our other ‘No Photos’ spot, where the DK kept us waiting, seemingly for ages while we kept a low profile waiting for it to get into a position where we could nab it from the bridge. It isn’t the greatest photo (but a lot better with a it of photoshopping of the overheads!), but DK556 is in the sightings book and they are rare beasts these days (plus they sound good)!

Now it was time for the drive, but opting to keep near to the railway just in case we happened to stumble across a sulphate train, having only so far seen one. This we did, and on the section of the road which actually follows the railway, allowing us to get into a decent position for the passing of E1111 with a westbound train- the sun was a little high, but you have to take what you are given!

Our drive north was punctuated by a stop at the motorway services for lunch. This is probably the best service station lunch any of us had had! A whole chicken cooked in a tagine- I won’t be expecting that at Clacket Lane any time soon!

Heading back towards Benguerir E1111 is intercepted on only our second Phosphate train- fortunately also heading in the right direction for the light towards Safi. 20/05/2026

Unfortunately our afternoon on the Khourigba line was less successful.
Pulling in to the station at Tamdrost where an E1300 was stabled, we were quickly ushered away unable to access the loco. In the escape we ended up stuck the wrong side of the barriers when a loaded Phosphate train then passed heading south with E1352- the chase was fairly futile as it was going at a good pace, and the light was all wrong for this direction anyway. We stumbled upon a level crossing with the warning lights on, which must have now meant a northbound train was due. The crossing keeper confirmed this, so we scrambled to a very average location for it… After about 20 minutes and several reassurances from the crossing keeper that the train was coming, it was concluded by all involved, that it was not, and the crossing was faulty. Panic over, we had time to find a proper location, and thoroughly ‘garden’ the view. Now all we needed was a train… and sadly all we got was E1318 going in the wrong direction. In 4 hours there had been no sign of a northbound train at all, but at least both trains we had seen were in the hands of the E1300’s, and we were able to confirm that the evening train to Oued Zem was an E1200- so we knew we at least had one of them to photograph in the morning!

Prima II E1412 is in charge of the 19:23 Benguerir - Safi in place of the hoped for Hitachi. 19/05/2026

Getting into our apartment in Settat wasn’t the simplest- but despite no common language with the host, we managed to locate the place, and be shown inside. A decent flat with enough beds, but this time not enough towels!

It was a drive back into bustling Settat for dinner- another meat grill for our final evening meal. All of us were relieved to get back into the apartment, since we had no idea what we were going to do if somebody had locked the secondary dead-bolt on the door that none of our keys would open! 

Thursday 21^st May-

E1419 provides our first freight on the Khourigba line, heading east with box wagons bound for the factory at Loulad. 21/05/2026

Since we had a flight home tonight, there was a realistic cut-off around midday to head back to Marrakech from the Khourigba line. Given the observed lack of trains yesterday, we had to be out at first light and hope for the best.

It was a good hour until our first train, predictably the passenger with E1258. It made a decent side shot, but as with the Safi line, the light was well off the front- we would have to hope the first southbound produced for the shot we really wanted.

Another Prima when we hoped for a Hitachi- E1376 never the
less makes a nice picture with the 08:14 train from Cassablanca
to Khourigba. 21/05/2026

I always feel a bit nervous moving from ‘the spot’ to take an average picture of a train heading the ‘wrong’ way on double track when you have no real idea of when you might see what you are actually waiting for. Fortunately fate didn’t send the only freight past us while we were out of position, but less than 10 minutes later, one did indeed round the corner. Not a sulphate train, but vans behind E1419- not quite what we wanted, but it was something. I believe these vans head up the diesel line to Loulad- perhaps something to chase later?

Since this train wasn’t part of the Phosphate circuit, I still had some hope that we might get our prize. E1313 headed north, and of course, the 08:14 Casablanca – Khourigba passenger turned up Prima hauled with E1376- our last chance at a passenger Hitachi.

E1258 works the first Khourigba train of the day, bound for Casablanca. 21/05/2026

Finally, at 10:00, after only just over 2 hours of waiting, the broken nose of E1318 crawled into view- We had our shot! And with the train going so slowly an enjoyable chase would follow. By now the established format of me quickly scouting locations down the line and directing while Rob drove quick enough to get the shots without us getting killed… that’s teamwork- and thanks to the absolute pedestrian pace of the train, we managed to get ahead of it for 4 more shots before it arrived at the Phosphate terminal at Sidi Hajjaj! The terminal here is all fenced off, but that didn’t stop us sneaking in for a final picture- the ground staff clearly not in the least bit bothered.

Finally a nez-casse phosphate train! Alstom E1318 powers its load towards the phosphate loading terminal at Sidi Hajjaj. 21/05/2026

There was no point sticking around the line any longer so we had a quick reccie of the line to Loulad- which yielded absolutely nothing except some gen from the station master at Mrizig that the freight was down the branch, and would leave around 18:00- no good for us.

I had a final shot planned on the electric line close to Marrakech, but the area was dodged by clouds, and the train never showed up anyway- maybe we missed it, maybe it was late- we will never know! All that was left now was to return the hire car to and head home on our flight from Marrakech after a successful trip.

 

Conclusions-

The final shot of the trip with E1318 now within the loading termina at Sidi Hajjaj. 21/05/2026

This trip was very different to my first visit, solo, to Morocco 9 years ago. Much more photography based, and very successful in that respect. The trip had initially been planned for later in the year when the days would be cooler, and hopefully the light more pleasant, but the potential imminent arrival of ‘DO’ class diesels from China, of which very little seems to be known, pushed this trip forward. It is expected that the new diesels will take over the passenger work east of Fez, replacing the DH400’s which themselves only date from 2013, with the displaced diesels then displacing older classes which are used on freight. Also looming is a large order for new EMU’s which will replace at least the majority of the loco-hauled passenger trains and their now ageing Corail coaches.

As is so often the case, this trip aimed to cover a little bit of everything in the minimum time- and really could have done with another day or two. That said, all the objectives were achieved, though a better picture of a ‘DK’ would have been preferable.

Getting one of the older diesels is always pleasing- DH367 is seen in charge of the 16:45 Fez - Oujda between Sidi Harazem and Ain Sbit on the 'horseshoe' curve which is so useful for photography. 16/05/2026

Chasing the diesels east of Fez is a pleasure- I’m sure there are more trains than when I first visited, but other than a few gaps, there is plenty of activity at some point throughout the day to maintain interest. Scenery is abundant also, and even sticking to not much more of an hours drive from Fez plenty of different shots can be achieved. There are a few of the older liveried DH300/350’s still active on passenger which add a nice bit of variety.

On the electric lines, it is good to see the older classes still just about hanging on. A big change from 2017 is that virtually all services are now in the hands of the E1400 Prima’s since delivery of the second batch. Only a handful of E1250’s still work on the Safi and Khourigba lines, and even here E1400’s can also appear.

It was good to capture both the old E1100 Hitachi’s and the Alstom E1300’s on freight, and having seen recent reports it was pleasing that, while I suspect we didn’t see every circuit, all of the Phosphate trains we did see on the Khourigba lines were in the hands of the older traction. The big risk to the remaining old locos surely comes from displacement of the E1400’s on passenger trains by EMU’s, likely in the next couple of years.

Having waited several hours, it was pleasing to catch one of the 'broken nose' Alstom electrics on the Khourigba line, which appears to be their last stronghold. 21/05/2026

I have always enjoyed travelling in Morocco, there are good people and the food is good. Generally we had no issues with photography and nobody caused us any bother. Aside from one near-death experience and a couple of road fines (and we were being careful!), the roads were not too tricky, and driving seemed much more regulated than other north African countries we had visited- though this didn’t necessarily translate to less accidents or an understanding of roundabouts!

I’d happily return to Morocco, but with changes on the horizon and other priorities, this might just be one of those countries that can now be put on the ‘done’ list!

ONCF Morocco Trip Report 5-9 January 2017

E1316 pulls into Rabat Ville with a service to Fes on 6th January 2017. Both the locomotive, based on the SNCF BB7200 and the Corail coaches which it pulls are typically French. 06/01/2017.

Thursday 5th January-
No trains today- unless you care about the journey to Stanstead airport.
It was a leisurely fight with Ryanair to Rabat. Despite not choosing to pay for an allocated seat I was given a window right near the front of the plane. During the course of the flight both of the two people sitting in my row got up and disappeared... I did't think I smelt particularly bad!?

Having arrived at Rabat there was a bit of a faf with getting money as neither ATM at the airport liked my card (I think it was my card rather than the ATM's at fault) so my first dinar was exchanged from my sterling at one of the money exchanges- I would have to hope my card would work in the morning! Transfer to the city was by the airport bus for 20 dinar (about £1.80)- first impressions of Morocco were as a modern 'civilised' country, then we passed two lorries massively overloaded with the most hay bails I have possibly every seen!

I stayed at the Rihab Hotel which was well located and fine. At first glance very nice actually, but the bathroom turned out to be ropey and the water turned out to be luke warm at best. As it was well dark by the time I arrived dinner was at a chain chicken restaurant around the corner, all very nice but I didn't really want the football on loudly booming across the whole place. I asked for the WiFi code and the waiter smiled and said 'no'... not sure what that was all about!

Friday 6th January-

Rabat Ville with Anseldo Breda Z2M EMU's which work local
trains between Cassablanca and Kenitra (plus some to Fes).

After breakfast I headed to Rabat Ville station, about 10 minutes from the hotel. I purchased a ticket for the short leap to Rabat Agdal partly to score a loco for the 5 minute hop but also to gain access to the station. I used the automatic ticket machines which do have an English option but always seem to be out of change. Expecting hassle with photos I made my way to the end of the platform out of the way for a few snaps, about 50% of the trains here are the new-ish double deck units, the other half being electric loco hauled. It generally seemed that the lower numbers, two digit trains were units with the three digit trains being 'grand lignes' locos and stock. Shadows were difficult in the lowish winter sun so I boarded the first loco to arrive E1412, one of the new Alsthom Prima II's to Agdul. I have to say, for a modern loco I really like the Prima II, especially in ONCF's orange and grey.

My first ride on ONCF was with E1412 a very smart Alsthom Prima II.

I spent around 90 minutes at Rabat Agdul during which a further 3 loco hauled trains were seen, firstly a southbound train with old Hitachi E1262 and secondly a northbound with Alsthom 'Nez Cassis' E1314 - a very French looking train once you couple it up with a typical train of Corail coaches. Finaly I left Agdul on E1408 heading back to Rabat Ville. I really needed to ride some of the older classes but I had a few shots and had not been accosted for photography at all.

I liked the Hitachi built E1200 class much more than I expected to. These
locos definitely have some character. E1262 stats at Rabat Agdul 06/01/2017.

I spent the early afternoon wandering around Rabat, though the Medina and out to the coast. An absolutely fascinating city by all accounts and a great place to while away a few hours. It's an odd mix of everything with the medieval Medina butting up to the modern tramway (opened 2011) with its Alsthom Citadis trams!
Before I had got bored of the place it was time to head back to the hotel, pick up my bag and head to the station for my train onward to to Fes. I had bought my tickets at the station earlier, this time from the counter as I wanted to break my journey in Kenitra in order to score another loco. This was no problem and with a bit of French and English I had my tickets no problem. I was told that despite having a train number printed on the ticket I could take any train that day with my 2nd class fare.





The train rolled in with E1316- Brilliant- not another modern Prima! The train was very busy but I did find a seat with a window in an open coach. Not everyone was so lucky. Kenitra turned out to be a building site but I didn't have too long here. Shortly after my arrival E1411 pulled in. Soon there was a flurry of activity around the front of the loco so I headed down to see what was going on- At some point earlier on its run it had clearly hit something large enough to smash and shatter the windscreen. No problem though- some sticky back plastic was quickly found and a makeshift repair made. Now I couldn't see a driver back home taking that forward in service, but off it went! My chariot forward pulled in as E1404 where I found a nice seat in a compartment for the journey on to Fes. The area around Rabat/Kenitra is seeing heavy investment as it will take the TGV's off the high speed line when it opens- part of this upgrade involves fencing in the entire railway with large concrete 'upside down T' sections which will make any lineside photography very ugly- and also doesn't entirely seem to keep the locals out as I saw several men vaulting over them. The line is rather flat and boring until reaching somewhere near Sidi Kacem where the landscape becomes more mountainous, and it god dark.

I don't think this would continue in service in the UK somehow! E1411
receives attention to its windscreen while it is paused at Kenitra.

On arrival at Fes there was the reassuring sound of a diesel heading east in another platform- I wandered over for a look and hopefully a photo, though the light was awful. I was quickly ushered away. The station staff clearly didn't want me anywhere near that diesel.
Gare du Fes is located in the new town, so I would need to make my way to the Medina for my hotel. Out of instinct I told all the taxi hawkers to go away before realising that what I actually needed was a taxi. I paid 40 dinah to reach the beautiful Riad Ibn Khaldoun, where upon arrival I discovered a taxi should have cost me 15-20 dinah. I would highly recommend this Riad to stay in- my room was stunning and it had heating (which is not a given for Morocco in winter). It was dark now so I went for a walk around the local area for the medina before finding somewhere for dinner. I rather suspect I was put upstairs in the 'foreigners room' for dinner as non-Moroccan parties were scattered sparsely around tables generally eating spaghetti bolognase. The restaurant was cold and sadly lacked atmosphere- but I can't complain at my giant bowl of cous-cous with lamb and with hindsight I don't think I paid too far over the odds for it at 100 dinah.
In an unusual change for these trips I was in bed at a reasonable hour.

Saturday 7th January

The 'wrong' end of DH363 is seen as it prepares to shunt a coach off of the
stock which has arrived at Fes to form the 10:45 to Beni Nsar Port. 07/01/2017.

Breakfast was traditional Moroccan breads and things, but nice enough. Now if the exquisite room wasn't the best thing about this Riad then the view across the Medina had to be- absolutely stunning, and what a city Fes is! Anyway... on to the trains. I found a taxi no problem for 20 dinar back to the station and purchased my ticket to D'Oued Amlil on the line towards Ouidja. Train services are very limited with only 3-4 per day and this seemed to be the best place for a run of about 2 hours out and back. Having left plenty of time, as I don't trust taxis, I had about an hour on the station. I was watched quite closely but nobody gave me any grief until 5 minutes before my train departed at 10:45 for Beni Nsar Port. Two trains had departed west in this time with E1262 and E1416. Soon after DH363 arrived with stock for another westbound departure (which I think left with an E1300). Shortly after newer DH411 appeared light engine, DH364 also departed west with a freight, but a photo was not possible as the yard is behind a fence. Now which loco would work my train (which arrived from Casablanca with E1258?). DH363 shunted off a coach, and then DH411 backed on, a shame- I wanted the old one!

DH430, one of the newer batch of locos in the revised ONCF colours departs from Gare D'Oued Amlil for Fes.

Just time for a quick photo of DH363 as we pause at Gare Ain Sbit. 

It was a good run though we lost a little time for no apparent reason. I had a comfy seat in a Corail compartment again. On arrival at D'Oued Amlil there should have been a -2 onto a train back to Fes. I had figured as we were on single track it might make despite our 5 minute delay and it did. It was however never the plan to take it, especially as it had another of the newer locos, DH430. I did have time for a nice picture of it leaving though. Around an hour behind this train was another, one of very few occasions where you don't get stranded for hours. This gave me time to buy my return ticket, get some lunch (BBQ meat and bread- straight off the carcass for 50 dinar, probably a hugely inflated tourist price). I had vaguely hoped that a nice eastbound freight might turn up during my lay over. Of course it didn't, but I did find a nice spot to photograph my train arriving and then to leg it to the station to jump on. This worked very well and one of the older locos DH373 appeared for the full sun shot. I had an excellent run back with the loco and the remains of my lunch in a lovely old red-faux leather ex SNCF compartment. I had also figured by this point that the Corail doors would open while on the move... that was the answer to hearing the loco within the air-con's then! There was even time for a short photo stop at Gare Ain Sbit despite slightly late running. The driver seemed to get out of the loco here so I asked the guard how long we had 'about 1 minute' - that'll do! I sneaked a couple of photos of the train on arrival at Fes but didn't want to outstay my welcome having already been told, very nicely, that I wasn't allowed to take photos.

I should have come years ago if I really wanted to see the DF
class at work in Morocco- With an awful shadow across the
front DF116 (ex SNCF CC72018) stands in the yard at Fes still
wearing it's former Fret SNCF livery. 07/01/2017.

Then I saw it... The holy grail of Moroccan trains... there was a DF in the yard. It was instantly recognisable as one of the ex-French CC72000's as it was still in SNCF Fret colours- now how on earth was I going to get a picture? The yard is reasonably well fenced and walking along the tracks was not going to work here. Eventually I found an access point through the black migrant camp (they were rather surprised to see me walking through!). Expecting to get kicked out of the yard I waited for the opportune moment to get my photo, letting a triple headed freight (E1100 + E1300 + E1200) get away in the process. I got my photo- with a massive shadow across it and was then greeted by a member of railway staff... Somehow we ended up having a nice chat and having passed him a photo of an SNCF CC72100 on the Belfort line I left with a few more photos and a friendly wave from him and his colleagues- that worked ok then! DM614 was also in the yard (with a shadow across it).

Wandering the Medina in Fes in search of dinner.

The diversion to DF 116 had cost me valuable time and I now had a lot less time to be a tourist around Fes. I got another 20 dinar taxi back to town and knew that my first port of call after dumping my bag was the tannery. It was a really fascinating place and I'm sure I needed the belt (100 dinar) and rug (350 dinar) that I was coaxed into buying! On a positive however I didn't get lost, or bugged by touts and actually found that having spent next to all of my money wandering the Medina was much more fun- I wasn't going to be forced into buying anything I didn't need because I couldn't! I ended the evening in one of the food alleys which was also a lot less filled with tourists. I made friends with a few stallholders while I stood drinking a glass of freshly squeezed pomegranate juice. For dinner it was street food- a stall I had seen with a queue the night befor. Here I definitely didn't get ripped off- I had seen the person in front of me pay his 10 dinar and clarified that my sandwich containing some sort of fried potato, an egg and some red stuff would cost the same. As I was turning to leave the stallholder called out to me... I hadn't picked up my change! Well there you are- dinner for 6 dinar (about 50p)!
It was an early night again and after some photographs of the city skyline by night it was time to bed down.

A view worth waking up for- the rooftops of Fes

Sunday 8th January

I got my first ride behind a Hitachi E1200 leaving Fes. As it
happens this was not it, but it would be my second as it would
work Tangier the train which followed behind my departure.

I had really enjoyed my time in Fes, but it was time to move on such was my whirlwind schedule. Today I had to end up in Tangier and had planned a schedule involving a couple of trains to score a few more locos, and maybe find some DF's in yards. My first train with E1260 took me to Meknes on the 09:40 departure to Casa Voyages. I had paid for a 1st class ticket for this part of the journey as it was cheap enough I could and would avoid any issue if the train was particularly busy. I found a nice compartment to myself and went to try the window to see if it was locked. It wasn't however as I went to open it I discovered another problem. It didn't stop at the angle it usually would and very soon was open to 270 degrees and a moment later was attached only to my hand and not the coach! I'd better put that back quickly... unfortunately it didn't really fit. Maybe it was like that before I thought as I watched it wobble in the frame. After a short while of unease I moved away from the middle seat convinced that it would blow in at the first tunnel. I didn't need to wait that long as 30 seconds after moving a train passed and that was enough- Bang! and the window was on the floor where I had just been sitting. I thought it prudent to let somebody on the train know, and the trolley attendant had just passed. He didn't seem interested at first to my 'problem finetra' but when he walked back past my compartment the scene was greeted with an 'Ooh la la!' so maybe it was an issue afterall! By the time the train had reached Meknes the travelling fitter was attending and I had been very apologetically moved to another compartment! At Meknes a E1300 was departing with a mixed freight as I arrived and there was an ONCF DF in the yard but it was totally inaccessible, especially given that the Tangier train (09:55 ex Fes) was shortly behind, the earlier train having left nearly 15 minutes late for no apparent reason. The second train had been observed with an E1400 the previous day but it was nice to see another oldie in the form of E1254 in charge.

Given it was one of my better photos of the trip it is probably no wonder that I didn't take up the option to delete this photo! E1302 waits with a southbound at Sidi Kacem with a train mostly formed of old liveried Corail coaching stock. This was formerly the point where electric locos gave way to diesels heading north to Tangier. Since electrification in 2011 trains have continued north to Tangier with electric traction. 08/01/2017.

Next stop was Sidi Kacem where our train was scheduled to lay over for around 30 minutes, quite significantly reduced because of our delay. I can only assume the timetable has not been re-cast since locos used to be exchanged here for the diesel run to Tanger before the wires were put up? In the other platform was a very well lit E1302 heading southbound. I popped over for a picture but before it departed was ordered not to take photos by the station staff. The driver didn't look best pleased either (all others had been super friendly) and I was advised that I 'should delete the picture'. As this was only advice and not an order I obviously didn't (it's probably my best shot of an E1300 as well)- but I did retreat back to my own train without taking any more!
I had a plan to change again at Mechraa Belksiri as there was another Tangier service 90 minutes behind mine (and I still wanted another E1300)- I had also worked out that there should be two southbound trains passing which would be good for the sun. I eventually found a spot which was nothing more than 'ok' for the first of these trains which eventually turned up about 35 late with E1256. The second I had not seen before my cut off to head back to the station for my own train- It was the right decision to give up on it as it was 45 late, and had an E1400 at the helm. It passed the station as I was boarding my own train north, with E1417. For the sake of 1 mediocre photo and another E1400 I'm not sure the 90 minute stint had been worth it!

The weather had clouded over by the time that E1417 arrived
at Tangier Ville. Much construction is taking place here. 

Arrival into Tangier Ville was shortly before nightfall and revealed another DF for sight with DF 120 in the yard opposite the stored TGV's. There is a lot of evidence of high speed line construction in this area but also much evidence that it is a way off yet. While the latest opening date of 2018 isn't impossible I'm not convinced it will happen myself. I counted 6 complete TGV Duplex sets in the new depot, some of which have now been there since 2015. It cannot be denied that the High Speed line will reduce journey times and thrust the rails to the forefront of Morocco's economy but like many I do question whether it is the best use of money, the project seeming slightly out of place with much of the character of the country.
Tangier Ville station is another building site, with the station building some 100m away from the tracks connected by a temporary shelter. Once TGV services start running this will be the grand northern terminus. It is a pleasant 30 minute walk to the old town, mostly along the sea front (another construction site) with views of the Spanish mountains across the Straight of Gibralter.

Some of the TGV's at the new depot at Tangier have already been standing idle for over 2 years. The High Speed line is currently expected to open in 2018. - Track has not yet reached Tangier. 08/07/2017.

I took a wrong turning looking for my hotel the basic, but adequate (and cold) Hotel Mamora. A local stopped me trying to give me cards to hotels and as I was shoeing him away I realised one was the very one I was looking for! He got an adequate tip but wanted me more for showing me the way.
Not having any clue where to go for dinner I consulted trip advisor and ended up with a very nice meal which while the most expensive of my trip (130 dinar for two courses) I didn't feel I'd been overcharged for. I spent another hour or so wandering the Medina in Tangier and again not getting too lost before heading back to the hotel.
I would need a taxi back to the station in the morning as I had already purchased my tickets for the 07:15 train to Tangier Port Med. The hotel was happy to book this for me for 100 dinar- I sincerely hope the guy at the desk had got confused as it should only cost 15! I did try to point this out and eventually decided to try my luck hailing my own cab in the morning.

Monday 9th January

Finally- a DF in ONCF colours- DF105 and E1351 show off both the French 'Nez Cassis' classes in use in Morocco. 

I had to skip breakfast but had brought some provisions the night before. Getting a taxi for 15 dinar from the road was no problem and I was at Tangier Ville in plenty of time for my train. As ever I showed my ticket to gain access to the platform and was asked if I wanted to know the platform number in French or English. It really didn't matter to me and turned out to be irrelevant anyway as platform 4 which I was directed to was full of the 07:25 train to Casa Voyages. On platform 2 was a more likely candidate, a loco, one Corail and generator coach which the crew confirmed was the 07:15 to Tangier Port Med. I had read that this train was very lightly loaded and while the passenger numbers must have been in double figures I did keep a compartment to myself for the whole of the 1 hour scenic ride behind E1310. Having heard of other enthusiasts luck with DF's on the branch I kept my eyes peeled (and the coach door open) every time we approached a yard. I was rewarded on the final approach to the port with DF 105 stabled in a yard and finally a photo of DF 120 (ex CC72003 and again in SNCF Fret livery) pulling a train out of the car loading terminal in the docks themselves.

DF120 hauls an empty car train out of Tangier Port Med.

If you are only interested in the trains you can stop reading at this point, however my journey was far from over.

I hadn't pre-booked a ferry, in fact I was originally planning to take the FRS fast cat from the old port in Tangier town to Tarifa in Spain, but then I did discover the one daily train to Tanger Port Med which would put me on a boat straight to Algeciras. Unfortunately there was a long gap between my 08:15 arrival at the port and the next boat. One of the company rep's told passengers that their company would run the next boat at 10/10:30 (so 10:30 then). I checked and another boat was due to leave at 10, but as was pointed out to us, it was still out at sea on its inward voyage. To be fair to the guy his boat wasn't the first to leave when it did at 11:00, but the other boat was only 10 mins in front and at 23 euros I didn't feel too hard done by. It was however abundantly clear that I wasn't going to get a photo of the train departing Algeceras at 11:45 as I had hoped. My boat the Nova Star was well appointed and had a nice outdoor area where I spent the whole crossing taking in the fading view of Africa and passing Gibraltar before we turned left into Algeceras.

Leaving Morocco from Tangier Port Med by boat.

Algeceras itself is hardly an idyllic Spanish town from what I saw but does boast a large dock complex. The station is about a 10 minute walk inland from the ferry terminal and sees several trains each day, the long distance ones being diesel loco hauled Talgo sets. I had long missed the 11:45 as now expected (also loosing an hour to the time change) but wasn't far off the 15:03 departure! I found a spot to view this and hoped that it would be the loco and stock in the station and not the unit with it's lights on. I had almost given up on the loco when 3 minutes before departure the level crossing went down and then to my almost shock the driver got in the loco, lights on, engine on and off it went! 334018 didn't sound bad either!

The 15:03 Altaria Talgo service from Algeciras to Madrid gets underway behind 334018. 09/07/2017.

Now it was time for me to rescue the heavily delayed itinerary for my day- heading across from the station to the bus depot to take the M-120 to La Lunea for Gibralta. It's more of a coach than a bus and costs 2.45 euro taking just under 45 minutes. Once at the end of the route it is a simple walk through the e-passport gates to get back into Britain- sort of! Gibraltar is a funny place, no less so from the fact that you must walk across an active runway to reach the town! I didn't initially find the main street having ended up in a residential area but once I did it was certainly time to find a pub and get a cider. It's very strange seeing common British brands among the local population, the majority of whom speak Spanish. Armed with a cookie from M&S it was back across the runway to make my flight back to Luton with Monarch.

Walking across the runway with the Rock of Gibralta looking on.

The flight was pretty full and due to being one of the last to board I had to take my turn at being one of the 'normals' faffing trying to get their small case into the overhead bin. Again I had been allocated a nice window seat without the £7 charge, though did have to suffer a couple next to me who clearly couldn't manage to do anything solo... having fed his girlfriend he even started reading her a story- I mean really!?
Our final drama was on the tarmac at Luton where one passenger accused another of stealing his wallet, a situation handled phenomenally badly by both parties. Welcome back to Luton folks!
As is often the case I then had the worst journey of the entire trip getting back to Waterloo- I hadn't realised there was a tube strike when I booked the flight!

Conclusions-

Gare du Fes is typical of modern ONCF stations build in the
typical Moroccan style. Stations are clean and well appointed.

I had wanted to visit Morocco for a very long time but somehow it had never quite made it to the top of my list. Of course I now wish it had while the DF's were still working passenger.
That aside the country is still well worth a visit for it's trains and I'm sure I'll go back. The locos which do run are very pleasing and travelling on Corails is pleasant wherever you are in the world. Travel is very cheap as well, I used point to point tickets totaling 353 dinar (about £30) including one 1st class journey. Unfortunately very little freight was seen, and I'd be interested to hear from readers of their experiences- I'd like to catch some, was I just unlucky or in the wrong areas for much of the time (it was also a weekend)? Photography was not as big an issue as it could have been, though seemed to be totally hit and miss with some locations being find and others not. Either way nowhere felt like you would get away with loitering on the station for more than a couple of hours.
Aside from the trains Morocco is a fascinating and beautiful country full of friendly people and I highly recommend a visit.

DH373 approaches Gare D'Oued Amlil with the 08:40 Beni Nsar Port to Casa Voyageurs on 7th January 2017.